Stunt Driving

Car Stunts and Wrecks

Drift a Car

How to Drift a Car

from wikiHow - The How to Manual That You Can Edit

Drifting is a driving technique and a motor sport where a car slides at an angle, with its side moving in the direction of the turn.
Things to do Before You Begin Drifting

1. Set up a cone in the middle of the lot. Drive up on the cone and rip the handbrake in an attempt to do a 180. Practice this until you are no more, and no less than 180 degrees from when you started.
   
2. Learn how to countersteer by ripping the handbrake from a speed of 10-20mph and trying to control the car to a destination until the car stops.
   
3. Increase speed of each of these things until you are comfortable
   
4. try to do the 180 cone turn put instead of stopping, hit the gas hard and power out and away from the cone.
   

Steps

Drifting with Rear Wheel Drive and Manual Transmission

1. Find a car with both rear-wheel-drive and a manual transmission. Ideally it should be a sports car with as close to a 50/50 ratio as possible, and enough power to keep the tires spinning is ideal.
   
2. Head to an open area (i.e. an empty parking lot) safely free of pedestrians and motorists and police!
   

Hand brake technique:

1. Accelerate and shift into a gear with room to rev. Second gear is generally used because it allows the widest variance of speed and is best for harnessing the engine's torque.
   
2. Push in the clutch.
   
3. Flick the steering wheel to the inside of the turn as if you were going to turn around it. While simultaneously pulling the hand brake.
   
4. Immediately out some pressure on the gas pedal, let out the clutch, and steer the car in the direction of the slide, using throttle to control the angle of the drift.
   

More Throttle will make the car turn more, and also move the car away from the turn center.
Less throttle will reduce angle, and allow the car to move towards the inside of the turn more freely.
You're drifting!
Clutch Kick technique:
Used while you are already moving to increase angle and/or revive wheel spin.
While you are drifting, you may feel the car begin to lose its drift angle and power. If this happens, you can kick the clutch to attempt to revive to tires spinning speed. This is similar to powershifting, and you are in escence trying to 'chirp' the tires again and again.

1. Enter a drift.
   
2. while you still have the power put on, kick the clutch pedal in and out a few times as fast as you can until the car is drifting again.
   
3. end with your foot off of the pedal.
   
4. continue the drift, and when you feel the car begin to lose angle/power try to clutch kick again.
   

Drifting with Rear Wheel Drive Auto

1. Find a large, open area.
   
2. Accelerate to a speed of 20-30(depending on lot size and room)
   
3. Turn the wheel hard and floor it. You should feel the rear end slide around if this is done correctly. Only use full throttle to start the drift, after this you should use proper throttle control to continue through the corner.
   

Preparing to Drift with a Front Wheel Drive Car

1. Go to a large, open area.
   
2. Pull the handbrake or use the parking brake, riding it out the first time or two to get over your initial fear.
   
3. Set up a cone in the middle of the lot.
   
4. Drive up to it at speed (between 20 and 30 is desired).
   
5. Pull the hand brake and turn toward the cone. Immediately after you feel the back end come around, turn to the opposite direction. This is known as opposite lock.
   
6. Repeat the opposite lock at that speed until you can control your car well. Practice this for at least several weeks regularly until it becomes second nature. (Don't do this on roadways. It is dangerous to others and can get you fined.)
   
7. Slowly increase speed until you are proficient in a speed you are comfortable with. Get to know that speed--you should never drift above that speed unless you are practicing.
   
8. Upgrade. At the same initial speed, flick the steering wheel opposite of the turn and swing it all the way into toward the CONE (not turn, you aren't ready at this stage). As before, when you feel the rear end come around, go to opposite lock.
   

Drifting with a Front Wheel Drive Car

1. Approach a turn at a comfortable speed, preferably in mid 2nd gear.
   
2. Pull the handbrake while turning into the corner, try not to lock the rear wheels.
   
3. You should still have the power on, try not to go less than 1/2 throttle at any time during the drift.
   

- When you feel the car start to understeer, and lose angle, pul the ebrake harder.
- When the car seems to turn too much, give it progressively more throttle, and release the handbrake some.

Tips

• No two cars react identically; try to "feel" yours to familiarize yourself with its reactions.
  
• In a rear wheel drive vehicle, you don't need to pull the brake as you improve, but it is often necessary when first learning.
  
• Starting out in the rain will save tires, and allow you to practice at slower speeds.
  
• Check out the Drift Bible, which outlines some of the more complex techniques involved in drifting a car.
  
• Try to find How To Drift: The Art of Oversteer by Paul Morton for really DETAILED DESCRIPTIONS AND PICTURES
  
• Good choices of cars to drift include: Nissan 240SX, 180SX, 350Z, Mazda RX-7 and Miata, Toyota Supra, AE86, Corolla, Silvia S14, and Silvia S15, Chevrolet Corvette, Viper, GTO, Solstice, G35, SC300, and Skyline GTE/GTS etc. These cars have close to a 50/50 weight ratio, rear wheel drive, manual transmission and enough power to keep the wheels moving.
  

Skyline GTR are AWD. Even though it has attesa which allows the weight to be distributed, it also has a system called HICAS or on later models SuperHICAS which makes sliding the tail out harder, as when this occurs, it tries to snap it back into place. You can uninstalled the HICAS/SuperHICAS and install a lock bar to correct this problem.

Warnings

• Never drift on the road. It is illegal. It might seem fun, but it's really not worth the risk.
  
• Don't go faster than you can handle. Recovering from a spin takes skill and experience.
  
• Because severe or uneven wear is a driving hazard, be sure enough tread remains on the tires when finished drifting, but the tires should either be checked out by a professional or changed immediately.
  
• If you intend to drift a SUV or pickup, use extreme caution. This can be done but you must be very experienced at drifting.
  

Things You'll Need

• A car with
  
  • wheels
    
  • an engine
    
  • tires
    
  • suspension
    
  
  
• A race track or open lot (recommended you have asked local authorities, tickets are not cool)
  
• Cones or other markers
  

Related wikiHows

• How to Race Your Car
  
• How to Race a Junker on a Dirt Track
  
• How to Drift on a Bicycle
  
• How to Drift on a Go Kart
  
• How to Do a Burnout
  

Sources and Citations

• Wikipedia's entry on drifting
  
• How to Drift: The Art of Oversteer
  

Article provided by wikiHow, a collaborative writing project to build the world's largest, highest quality how-to manual. Please edit this article and find author credits at the original wikiHow article on How to Drift a Car. All content on wikiHow can be shared under a Creative Commons license.

How much is my car worth?

Want to sell your car? Wonder how much you can get for it? Looking for a quality used car? Want to know how much their going for? Save money by looking at this car buying/selling guide.

Fight a Parking Ticket

How to Fight a Parking Ticket

from wikiHow - The How to Manual That You Can Edit

There are many ways for fighting a parking ticket. In New York it can be slightly easier.

Steps

1. Review your ticket carefully for mistakes.
   
2. Look for a mistake of fact on the ticket. If you can provide evidence to prove a mistake, this may be enough to have the ticket or your court case dropped.
   
3. If you contest your ticket, try to get a court date that interferes with the police officer's schedule (find out when his shifts are, etc.) In most places, if the officer who issued the ticket does not show up in court, the ticket will be thrown out.
   
4. Adopt an attitude of contrition when you go before the judge for your hearing. Say you know you were wrong and that you have learned from your mistake. The judge is more likely to be lenient with you if he or she knows you are going to try to do better in the future.
   
5. Provide defending evidence. If the wording is unclear about a parking area, or paint is too faded to generally recognize, a photo of the area can provide the judge with more information about the situation.
   
6. Try using one of the following tricks to avoid getting a parking ticket all together (these methods are not guaranteed to work and you are likely better off paying the meter fee or abiding by the parking restriction rules):
   
   • Leave a hand written dated note on your dash stating that you put money in the meter and it did not account for it. Technically you are entitled to the maximum time allowed by the meter. You're car will be marked and the time noted by passing bylaw enforcement officers as is done if the parking zone was a timed zone. This may not work if the bylaw officer does not notice the note on the dash so be sure to make it as visible as possible.
     
   • Pop the hood of your vehicle and apply your emergency blinkers; this classifies you as an abandoned vehicle on a highway and you are less likely to receive a ticket as it requires different paperwork by the officer.
     
   • Park on private property instead of city property. Restricting the use of private property for the purposes of parking requires that the owner of the land erects proper signage indicating that you are not allowed to park there and the signage MUST include the bylaw number and the specific wording accepted by that city as suitable no parking wording (for example simply saying "no parking" is not enforceable as there is no consequence indicated so one could say that he/she didn't know that they would receive a ticket if parking there). The best most cities can do is give you a citation indicating that you have 72 hours to remove your vehicle from the location. Be careful with this option though, as the owner of the land can have you towed by a private towing company and you will be liable for the expense. Your vehicle may also be subject to vandalism by the property owner as a subtle warning to never park there again. By using this option you are likely inconveniencing the property owner and you shouldn't do something to someone else that you wouldn't want done to you.
     
   • Park in a space that's already been paid for and has room for two. If you drive a very small vehicle (such as a hatchback, motorcycle or scooter) and you discover an unusually large parking space, or one where another small vehicle has parked, you can get away with parking your vehicle in the same spot. Putting money in a parking meter is the equivalent of leasing that space from the city for the indicated time on the meter. Most jurisdictions don't outline any restrictions as to how many vehicles can be parked in the designated area for the time leased. Be sure your vehicle does not hang over the designated parking area lines or you may be ticketed and towed. Also, be careful not to block the other vehicle in the parking space or your vehicle may be damaged when they try to remove their vehicle from the space.
     
   • If the spot is a timed spot with no meter, move your vehicle a few inches forward or backward before the allowed time has expired. A bylaw enforcement officer chalks your tire with an 'X' and documents where it was marked on the tire and at what time. Upon his/her return to ticket you after the time has expired, if the chalk mark is in a different location he/she cannot prove that your vehicle remained in the space and did not leave and return (which entitles you to the maximum time allowed by the space again). He/She must chalk your tire again and allow the maximum time to expire before returning to ticket your vehicle. Be careful that the chalk mark indeed is in a visibly different location than it was previously as the officer's paperwork is only an approximation of where it was marked. Ensure that the chalk mark is unarguably in a different location by being at least a quarter turn of the wheel away from where it was before.
     
   
   

Tips

• 1. If you would like to argue about the validity of the ticket, it doesn't help to contradict the police officer. So do not say something like "I didn't do it", or "I wasn't parked there" if the police officer is going to say otherwise.
     
  2. You need to find a MERIT to let the summons be dismissed.
     
  3. If there is a scribbled correction this is called a Alertation and can sometimes warrant a dismissal.
     
  4. If it is a street sweeping ticket, you can sometimes get a dismissal if there is graffiti on the sign. A bumper sticker placed in the right position would be considered graffiti.
     
  
  

Warnings

• In some places, courts are giving people court dates based on the officer's schedule, so he will be able to appear in court.
  
• Trying to cheat the law by exploiting parking loopholes can have undesired consequences that are sometimes worse than the ticket itself.
  

Related wikiHows

• How to Avoid a Traffic Ticket
  
• How to Fight a Traffic Ticket
  
• How to Avoid a Speeding Ticket
  

Article provided by wikiHow, a collaborative writing project to build the world's largest, highest quality how-to manual. Please edit this article and find author credits at the original wikiHow article on How to Fight a Parking Ticket. All content on wikiHow can be shared under a Creative Commons license.

Deal with a tailgater

How to Deal with Someone Tailgating You

from wikiHow - The How to Manual That You Can Edit

There is nothing as frustrating as driving on a two-lane road and having a vehicle so close behind you, that you fear to brake lest they hit you in the rear. On a four-lane highway, the fear is less, but the sight of another car so close makes for nervous driving.

Steps

1. Pull over and allow the vehicle behind you to pass, if it is safe to do so. If the car behind you is catching up, there's a good chance the driver wants to go faster. If it's safe to do so, let him/her.
   
   • On narrower roads, use turnouts to allow others to pass when it is safe to do so. In many places, it is required that slower traffic use turnouts. Elsewhere, it is simply polite.
     
   • On a winding road, do not speed up so drastically at passing lanes that others cannot pass. Many drivers go slowly and cautiously around curves and then get on a straightaway and feel that they have the space or visibility to dart ahead. Have the patience to let others past.
     
   
   
2. Slow down gradually. If somebody is following you too closely to be safe, slow down, but do not make it a sudden move. Most likely they will take the opportunity to pass you when it is possible and take the hint to give you a bit more space until then. Should an accident occur, at least it will occur at a slower speed.
   
3. If you are comfortable driving a bit faster and it is safe, then try speeding up. It might be that you are driving too slowly.
   
4. Look in the rear mirror, and use your hand on the mirror, as if you were waving back and forth, to signal him to get off your bumper.
   
5. Tap your brakes lightly a few times, so that he/she sees your brake lights, but not so hard that you actually slow down. This is another signal to back off.
   

Tips

• Do not allow the other driver to make you nervous. He or she will move away or slow down, pass, or turn off eventually.
  
• Be courteous to other drivers and avoid crowding behind them or following too closely.
  

Warnings

• Tailgating is very dangerous, and even more so if the weather reduces visibility or makes the road surface slippery.
  
• Never start speeding to get rid of a tailgater; if you do not feel comfortable driving faster, use other means to discourage him/her from following. Until then, keep driving at a comfortable, safe, and legal speed.
  

Related wikiHows

• How to Drive
  
• How to Drive a Car
  
• How to Test Drive a Car
  
• How to Drive Safely in the Rain
  
• How to Keep Right Except to Pass
  

Article provided by wikiHow, a collaborative writing project to build the world's largest, highest quality how-to manual. Please edit this article and find author credits at the original wikiHow article on How to Deal with Someone Tailgating You. All content on wikiHow can be shared under a Creative Commons license.

Change your Air Filter

How to Change Your Air Filter

from wikiHow - The How to Manual That You Can Edit

Air is the one thing your car needs more than fuel. But although it comes free of charge, it's not always clean. Air filters maintain the inside of the engine free of dust and insects. Replace or clean your air filter within the recommended time and your car will run at peak performance levels. You can to this routine maintenance yourself, as air filters are inexpensive and quick to replace.

Steps

1. Secure the vehicle. Park the car on level ground, apply the parking brake. Shift into first gear (manual transmission) or Park (automatic transmission), and turn off the ignition.
   
2. Open the bonnet. Release the bonnet with the lever inside the car. Move the exterior bonnet catch for final release. Lift the bonnet and secure it with the prop rod.
   
3. Locate the air filter unit. The air filter unit is usually situated on top of the engine. On older cars with carburettors the filter is usually under a bulky, round cover made of plastic or metal; fuel-injected cars tend to have a square or rectangular air filter housing can be found slightly off centre between the front grill and the engine.
   
4. Remove the air filter cover. Loosen the hose clamp that seals the air conduct. Undo all the screws holding the air filter cover. Some models have wing nuts, other air filters are just clamped on with a quick release system. Keep screws and other parts in a safe location so you can find them later. Pull the cover out of the air conduct and lift it up so it comes off the lower part of the housing. Consult a mechanic if you don't know how to lift the cover.
   
5. Take out the air filter. Now you can see a round or rectangular filter made of cotton, paper or gauze. In 4x 4 vehicles the more complex filter is usually a double unit consisting of both an oil soaked and a dry filter element. Filters have a rubber rim that seals off the unit's interior. Simply lift the filter out of the housing.
   
6. Clean the air filter housing. Seal the air conduct with adhesive tape. It only takes a minute and that way you won't get any dirt into the engine whilst cleaning. Connect the air hose to the compressor and use the compressed air to blow out the dust. Alternatively use a vacuum cleaner to suck up any dirt.
   
7. Replace the filter. Replace the old filter with a new one. Simply insert it into the housing with the rubber rim facing up. Make sure the edges are sealed by the rubber rim. You should change the filter every 15,000 km, about once a year. If you live in a dusty area check up after 10,000 km.
   
8. Replace the cover. Carefully insert the cover back into the air conduct and then press the entire piece down onto the lower half of the air filter unit. Make sure it's not askew as this would alter engine performance levels. Tighten all the screws or clamps and finally check that you have put everything firmly back together by slightly rocking the unit with both hands. Make sure the bonnet is properly shut. Perform this check regularly and you keep your car breathing at maximum efficiency by keeping the dust out.
   

Tips

• You can clean the old filter as long as the material isn't torn, cracked or oil stained. Use a light to check if it is oily inside. Hold a lamp behind it and see if the light gets blocked out by oil. Proceed if the light can be seen. Now blow out the dust with compressed air if you have it, or else vacuum it up. Turn the air filter around so you are cleaning both sides .
  
• You can put the filter back in this time. Buy yourself a new filter soon and change at the next check.
  

Warnings

• Make sure that you properly secure the vehicle.
  

Things You'll Need

• a new air filter/ specifications as recommended by the manufacturer
  
• a flat screwdriver
  
• a Phillips screwdriver
  
• a compressor air valve w/hose
  

Related wikiHows

• How to Change the Cabin Air Filter in a Toyota
  
• How to Install a Cabin Air Filter in a 2003 Ford Escape Xlt
  
• How to Calculate Your Car's Fuel Efficiency (MPG)
  
• How to Keep Track of Fuel Use
  
• How to Get Glue off of a Car
  

Sources and Citations

• VideoJug.com - Original source of this article. Shared with permission.
  

Article provided by wikiHow, a collaborative writing project to build the world's largest, highest quality how-to manual. Please edit this article and find author credits at the original wikiHow article on How to Change Your Air Filter. All content on wikiHow can be shared under a Creative Commons license.

Create an Art Car

How to Create an Art Car

from wikiHow - The How to Manual That You Can Edit

Tired of the sea of silver and tan that seems to make up traffic? Do you want to stand out or make a statement? Try turning your vehicle into an art car.

Steps

1. Choose an automobile to modify. If you're planning on driving your art car on a regular basis, you'll want one that is in good mechanical working order. Some "cartists", however, prefer to leave their art cars parked, and only move them by towing to destinations such as art shows. Since you'll probably be modifying the outside heavily, it doesn't matter too much if the finish is damaged, although an additional investment of time and effort will be required to remove any rust if you're going to paint the car.
   
2. Choose your theme. Themes are unlimited. You can go with a hobby, a political statement, self-expression or a commercial venture. If the car is going to be driven, it's likely to draw attention and can be a good medium through which to advance a cause or promote a business.
   
3. Plan your car art and start where it draws you. During the planning stage, let your creativity run wild. Make sketches or collect swatches and samples of possible materials or colors to use. Then, choose an idea and modify it so that you can execute it.
   
4. Make any pre-paint modifications to the car itself. If your plan calls for see-through panels, for instance, it's best to make the cuts before painting.
   
5. Create any sculptures or larger items you plan to attach to the car. If you can do these separately from the car itself, they will help you to get the colors and arrangement right on the rest of the vehicle. It's also a good idea to do these first, at least the larger ones, to determine whether you're really committed to the project before you cut and paint.
   
   • Keep in mind that you can also expand the surface of the car with expandable spray foam or bondo body-filler. This may reduce the need to attach separate large objects to the car.
     
   
   
6. Paint the car. Choose a color or colors that will go with your theme. The paint can be the art in itself or it can be a background for other additions, or both. One-shot sign enamel is available in bright colors and is very durable, but you can also use oil paint (for more expression and less convenience) or even poster paint (for a temporary design).
   
7. Attach any large pieces where they will go. For larger pieces, be very sure that you secure them firmly (see warnings below). It's likely that you'll need to use bolts, screws, pop rivets or welding. There are, however, ways to attach large pieces temporarily, such as with string or rope, or even creating edges that wrap around doors and trunks so that they are secured when the door or trunk is closed.
   
8. Attach any other background materials, such as tile, fur, bottle caps, etc. A car that has its surface virtually covered in small objects is often referred to as a "gluey". You can use silicone adhesive, epoxy or liquid nails. Use the larger works to get the spacing and arrangement right.
   
   • Smaller objects can be attached temporarily with magnets. This is useful if you only want the car to be a work of art for a short period of time, or if there's a chance the objects will be stolen when the car is unattended.
     
   • Don't forget that if the car is driven, these items will see vibration, acceleration, and high wind. They should also be relatively weatherproof.
     
   
   
9. Light it up. If the art car will be on display after hours, you can add Christmas lights, el wire or neon tubes, which can be powered independently (battery in the back seat?), through the cigarette lighter, or wired to the battery.
   
10. Apply any finish coatings to the outside. Will you add a protective coating of shellac or fill in grooves with caulk of some sort?
    
11. Decorate the inside of the car, if you are going to. Will you add furry trim or bright colors to go with your theme?
    
12. Decorate yourself to match. Wear outfits that match or complement the design of the car.
    
13. Show off your art car. Go to shows, parades, or just drive around town. Be prepared to answer questions! To find other "cartists" go to an art car parade.
    

Tips

• Be realistic about your mechanical and electrical abilities if you plan to do more than surface decoration. If you want to add lights or make major structural modifications, be sure you know what you're doing, or get help from someone who does.
  
• Don't forget to leave space for yourself and your passengers. That means checking that doors can still open and close, not applying interior trim where it will encroach on passenger space, etc.
  
• When painting, follow the directions on the paint can.
  
• Be sure you allow 24 hours before driving with any newly glued items on your car.
  
• When attaching large sculptures to your vehicle, allow for vibration and a back up system. Use a lot of quarter-inch bolts to hold sculptures on. You can also also use an #8 copper wire as a backup plan. Safety is a great concern. Remember that anything sticking out will be subject to wind, vibration, acceleration, and deceleration. You want people to look at your car but not get hit by it.
  
• Depending on your theme, look around for found materials. They'll save you money, and they just may inspire ideas you hadn't thought of.
  
• Plan to protect your hard work from the weather. Store it in a garage or other covered parking if you can; if you can't, get a cover or tarp for it.
  

Warnings

• If you will drive the car (and isn't that the point?), be sure to comply with the laws of your area. That means, among other things, not covering up things like lights, windshields, and license plates.
  
• Be mindful of structural integrity. It's one thing to chop out a bit of sheet metal and replace it with acrylic so that goodies inside a door can show through; it's another matter entirely to start slicing up frame members.
  

Related wikiHows

• How to Turn a Car Into a Moving Advertisement
  
• How to Remove Rust from a Car
  
• How to Get Spray Paint off of a Car
  
• How to Be Happy With Your Car
  

Sources and Citations

• http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Art_car
  

Article provided by wikiHow, a collaborative writing project to build the world's largest, highest quality how-to manual. Please edit this article and find author credits at the original wikiHow article on How to Create an Art Car. All content on wikiHow can be shared under a Creative Commons license.

Install speakers and subwoofers

How to Install Car Speakers and Subwoofers

from wikiHow - The How to Manual That You Can Edit

Are your car speakers distorted? Here we'll show you how to install new ones!

Steps

1. Insert DIN tools into each side of the car stereo. Pull on them and the stereo should slide out of the dash.
   
2. Disconnect the speaker and amplifier terminals from your car stereo.
   
3. Take your door panels or speaker grilles off.
   
4. Disconnect the old speakers and old amplifiers from their terminals.
   
5. Connect the new speakers and amplifiers to their terminals.
   
6. Replace the door panels and speaker grilles.
   
7. Turn on the ignition. Listen!
   

Things You'll Need

• Car Speakers
  
• Optional- Car Amplifiers
  
• DIN Tools
  

Related wikiHows

• How to Install a New Car Stereo System
  
• How to Detail Model Car Engines on the Cheap
  
• How to Mount a License Plate
  
• How to Make Your Car Look Like a VIP's Car
  

Article provided by wikiHow, a collaborative writing project to build the world's largest, highest quality how-to manual. Please edit this article and find author credits at the original wikiHow article on How to Install Car Speakers and Subwoofers. All content on wikiHow can be shared under a Creative Commons license.

Leaking Tire?

How to Find a Leak in a Tire

from wikiHow - The How to Manual That You Can Edit

You are driving on the highway,then suddenly there is a loud noise.
Stop the care and see if your tire just went flat.

Steps

1. Mix the soap with your water and let it sit for one minute.
   
2. Dump a little water onto your tire.
   
3. Notice ifthe water starts to bubble in one place,thats where the hole is.
   
4. Look and do not see bubbles, your lucky. you don't have a flat.
   
   • If your leak is on a bike tire, take out the tubing and fill it and quickly put it in a filled bathtub or pool. You should see air bubbles coming from the spot were the holes are located.
     
   
   

Alternative Method

1. Inflate tube until it expands as big as a car tire.
   
2. Listen for hissing noise emanating from the tube. Feeling for the hole also works.
   
3. After locating the hole, patching the tube can be done.
   

Tips

• Use a sponge to get the water on your tire.
  
• Clean your tire with plain water to get the dirt out of the hole, if there is one.
  

Warnings

• Pull off the road when you do this.
  

Things You'll Need

• liquid soap
  
• warm water
  
• bucket
  

Related wikiHows

• How to Convert Bicycle Tires Into Studded Snow Tires
  
• How to Mend a Puncture in a Bike Tire
  
• How to Fix Brakes on a Bike
  
• How to Replace a Bicycle Tire
  

Article provided by wikiHow, a collaborative writing project to build the world's largest, highest quality how-to manual. Please edit this article and find author credits at the original wikiHow article on How to Find a Leak in a Tire. All content on wikiHow can be shared under a Creative Commons license.

Do a reverse 180 - stunt car driving

How to Perform a Reverse 180 in a Car

from wikiHow - The How to Manual That You Can Edit

This maneuver is a fun, easy and it allows you to get your car moving in the opposite direction without having to perform a u-turn.

Steps

1. Start from a stopped position. This maneuver can get you turned around even in a tight location (without performing an 8-point turn).
   
2. Check to make sure you have enough room to have the car sideways, and then some.
   
   • Without enough room (especially when you are learning) it is easy to damage your car or other property. It is best practiced in an empty parking lot or dirt area (dirt will give you the same skills, but requires less speed, and will cause less tire wear).
     
   
   
3. Drive to one end of the area (from now on it will be assumed you are in a parking lot) with your back-end pointed in the direction you wish to go. Accelerate in reverse to 10-30MPH.
   
   • The faster you go, the easier it is to get the front to come around, but it also becomes increasingly more dangerous and more likely to damage something. Slower reverse-180s are more difficult to perform, but is still a very good thing to practice.
     
   • In a FWD/AWD car, this next step is easy. Turn the wheel in one direction to initiate the front end sliding. Giving a bit more gas as soon as you start the turn will help a bit. As soon as the front of the vehicle starts sliding, press the brakes lightly, put the car in neutral, and be ready to put it into gear.
     
   • In a RWD car, turn the wheel in one direction to initiate the front end sliding, but at the exact same time, press the brake pedal pretty hard, do not lock up your brakes, but this helps your vehicle pivot on the rear tires. Put the car in neutral, and be ready to put it into gear.
     
   
   
4. Put the car in gear (drive) as soon as the slide is half-way through. Be prepared to step on the gas. As soon as you are pointed in the direction you desire to go, hit the accelerator and make any minor adjustments to your driving angle with your steering wheel.
   
5. Remember, when you initiate the spin, you car will not go straight back, it will move somewhat in the opposite direction that you slide the front end, so be aware that your backend may hit something (give it extra room).
   
6. Practice spinning in both directions. Experiment with different amounts of gas and brakes at the outset of the slide.
   

Tips

• Try it a few times in dirt or snow first, as you are able to go slower, before you try it on asphalt.
  
• It is a considerably easier to keep control of this maneuver with a front wheel drive vehicle.
  
• To initiate a more aggressive turn, first turn the wheel slightly in the opposite direction from which you intend to spin. This is called countersteering, and is used commonly by cyclists and motorcyclists to turn corners. Once the vehicle shifts it's weight to the side that you are countersteering, then turn the wheel hard in the (other) intended direction of spin with a burst of gas (FWD only) to initiate the spin more concisely.
  
• Remember, to exit the spin you must return your wheels to "straight" that is parallel to the intended direction of travel.
  
• You may even try pulling the hand brake and turning the steering in any direction but note that it can only be done at high speeds like above 40Kmph.
  

Warnings

• While it is possible to perform this with a SUV or pickup truck, do not attempt it with one. The danger of flipping the vehicle is much too high with a vehicle that has a high center of gravity.
  
• Wear your safety belt, as even with a low slung passenger car, it is possible to flip the vehicle if you hit a large rock or other obstruction mid turn.
  
• If you do not put the car in neutral soon enough, or put in the car in gear (drive) too soon, you have the possibility of messing up your transmission.
  
• May cause death.
  

Related wikiHows

• How to Drive Tactically (Technical Driving)
  
• How to Use the Pursuit Intervention Technique (PIT Maneuver) in a Car
  
• How to Choose a Car for Tactical Driving
  
• How to Stop a Car with No Brakes
  
• How to Avoid a Moose or Deer Collision
  
• How to Drive a Car in Winter Weather
  
• How to Hotwire a Car
  

External Links

The J-Turn technique explained with illustrations

Article provided by wikiHow, a collaborative writing project to build the world's largest, highest quality how-to manual. Please edit this article and find author credits at the original wikiHow article on How to Perform a Reverse 180 in a Car. All content on wikiHow can be shared under a Creative Commons license.

Do a burnout

How to Do a Burnout

from wikiHow - The How to Manual That You Can Edit

Try doing this before a race
Burnouts with cars are where the wheels spin, often causing a large amount of smoke, but the car does not move until the driver "pops" the car into motion. Burnouts are also known as brake burns, roll-backs and wheel-spins, depending on the technique. Heat caused by the inability of the tires to gain traction with the road, and instead suffer extreme friction causes a lot of squealing, smoke and burnt rubber.
Burnouts began in drag racing where there was a real reason for them: Drag racing tires must be heated before a race and a burnout is the best way to accomplish this goal. Burnouts also help clean drag racing tires, which is where the two strips of rubber on the pavement come from. Today, burning out has become an art in itself and competitions are held worldwide.
Burning out a regular car is a whole other matter, and cannot be done well in any old car (especially four cylinders) as they typically do not have the power/weight and torque dynamics, and obviously have the wrong kind of tires. Doing a burnout on street tires makes a lot of smoke, removes layers of expensive rubber, and accomplishes nothing of dynamic significance. It can be done though, and in this wikiHow we'll show you how.

Steps

1. Find out if you have a front wheel drive (FWD) or a rear wheel drive (RWD) car.
   
2. Check your hand brake, also known in slang as an E-brake, is functioning well.
   

Front Wheel Drive Cars

1. Put the car in first gear.
   
2. Hold in the clutch.
   
3. Rev. the engine.
   
4. Pull on the handbrake. Alternatively, you can skip this step.
   
5. Release the clutch.
   
6. Move the handbrake up and down to control the burnout.
   
7. To stop the burnout ease off the accelerator and free the brake.
   

Rear Wheel Drive Cars

1. Do a Basic RWD Burnout.
   
   1. Lightly hold down the brake with your left foot.
      
   2. Push the accelerator until the car moves forward a tiny bit.
      
   3. At the same time floor the gas and press the brake harder.
      
   
   

Manual Rear Wheel Drive Cars

1. 1. Depress the clutch, and rev the engine.
      
   2. In one quick motion, "dump" the clutch and press the brake pedal while flooring the gas.
      
   
   

1. Use a line locker. A line locker is a device that modifies a car so the brake pedal only engages the front brakes. This dangerous and usually illegal device makes burnout on RWD cars easier and more dramatic. A line lock is a solenoid (fancy name for a switch) that gives you some extra buttons in the drivers seat to control your brakes. To do a burn out with a line locker installed:
   
   1. Step on the brakes.
      
   2. Push the line lock button.
      
   3. Release the line lock button leaving your front brakes on and disengaging your back brakes, leaving those wheel free to spin, burn and make smoke.
      
   4. Push line lock again to release the front brakes and move forward.
      
   
   
2. Do a donut. A doughnut (donut in the USA) is a circular burnout. To do a donut in RWD cars:
   
   1. Find a large open area with no other cars, lampposts or other things you can hit. It is easy to loose control of a car with a donut.
      
   2. Begin driving in slow circles.
      
   3. Hit the gas hard so that the rear tires begin to loose traction.
      
   4. You will burn around in a circle.
      
   
   

Rollbacks

1. A rollback is just like a burnout, but performed on a hill. They are a good way to get a burnout in an underpowered car as the backward movement helps with traction after the burn.
   
   1. Find a hill.
      
   2. Put the car in first.
      
   3. Depress the clutch.
      
   4. Let the car roll backwards down the hill.
      
   5. Give the car plenty of gas.
      
   6. Pop the clutch.
      
   
   

Wheel Spins

1. A wheel spin occurs when the driver spins the wheels on the road before moving. This is a lesser form of burnout, because the intention is not to cause excessive tire wear, but merely to spin the wheels. Wheel spins are far easier and less dangerous to your car than a burnout. To perform the wheel spin:
   
   1. Depress the clutch with the car in gear.
      
   2. Rev the engine high while releasing the clutch.
      
   
   

Tips

• If the engine stalls you haven't revved the car high enough before popping the clutch, or your vehicle doesn't have the power to burnout.
  
• To test if your car has enough power nail the gas from a stopped position and see if you can spin the tires.
  
• An alternative to a line lock is a "Brake Clamp". Designed to clamp off a brake line when being worked on, these can also be used to shut off the rear brakes thus allowing only the front brakes to function when the pedal is depressed. Note: most cars have a steel brake line from the brake booster to the rear of the car, the area to put the brake clamp is a short length of rubber hose that attached to the Differential. (some cars have two separate brake lines, one for each side, in which case two brake clamps are required.
  
• Try changing your tires. The worse your tires are the easier it is to make them spin, plus they smoke easier and you will not ruin your good tires.
  
• Increase the amount of smoke by lubing your drive tires with old motor oil.
  
• It can help to give the tires a quick powerful spin before pulling the e-brake.
  

Warnings

• Always wear a seatbelt, and not just for safety but for acceleration.
  
• Give any passengers the option to get out before you do this.
  
• Burnouts are illegal in almost all municipalities. In Australia you can lose your car. In the USA, especially in California, there are a large variety of infractions that you can be cited with by an Officer for burning your car, all included under the Exhibition of Speed laws including:
  
  • Dry Reckless - California Vehicle Code§ 23103
    
  • Wet Reckless
    
  • Off street Parking — As defined in subdivision (c) of Section 12500.
    
  • Unsafe Turning Movement (U-Turn Burnout or Donut)
    
  • Unsafe staring/backing of vehicle — California Vehicle Code§ 22106
    
  • Disorderly conduct with a vehicle — California Vehicle Code §23103
    
  • Unsafe Start
    
  • and many more. Each of these infractions is a two pointer moving violation with no chance of correction by traffic school.
    
  
  
• NEVER try to "Pop" the Transmission in an Automatic car! By revving the engine in neutral and jamming it into gear your transmission box will probably fall out onto the ground. An automatic can't handle the jamming into gear thing like clutch cars.
  
• You can easily destroy or seriously damage a car by doing any of these things.
  
• Holding the brakes while gassing the engine is not that bad for your brakes; it is terrible for your engine however.
  
• Watch where you're going so you don't hit someone.
  
• Watch how much rubber is on your tires so you don't have a blowout.
  
• Check your tire pressure after each burnout.
  
• You may cause an axle to break if you try a burnout
  
• You may destroy your clutch if done incorrectly.
  

Things You'll Need

• A car with enough torque to weight ratio.
  
• A car with enough power.
  
• Driving skill.
  
• Good tires you don't mind destroying.
  
• A tarmac surface, not sand, gravel or grass.
  

Related wikiHows

• How to Drift a Car
  
• How to Get a Good Deal on Tires
  
• How to Race Your Car
  
• How to Calculate Your Power and Horse Power
  
• How to Know when Car Tires Need Replacing
  
• How to Change a Tire
  
• How to Build a Great Relationship With Your Auto Mechanic
  
• How to Understand the Basics of Car Maintenance
  
• How to Bleed Brakes
  
• How to Boost Your Car's Horsepower
  

Sources and Citations

• http://www.dmv.ca.gov/pubs/vctop/vc/vctoc.htm — Complete California Vehicle Code
  
• http://www.dmv.ca.gov/pubs/vctop/d11/vc23109.htm — DMV Speed Contest Laws
  
• http://www.caranddriver.com/features/11471/the-burnout-kings.html — Car and Driver best burnout cars
  
• http://www.metacafe.com/watch/405078/kick_ass_burnout/ — Burnout Video
  
• http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D7Gbuu6grHY — Camero burnout video
  
• http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UkNzL9PRBuM — A donut burnout
  
• http://thrashcar.com/articles/article.asp?articleID=103 — A burnout with oil added
  

Article provided by wikiHow, a collaborative writing project to build the world's largest, highest quality how-to manual. Please edit this article and find author credits at the original wikiHow article on How to Do a Burnout. All content on wikiHow can be shared under a Creative Commons license.

Car won't start? Try this.

How to Fix a Car That Doesn't Start

from wikiHow - The How to Manual That You Can Edit

Repairing a car that wont start can be as simple as plugging in a wire, changing a fuse, or as complicated as replacing major engine components. The following may help you discover the problem, but there is no way to cover every possibility. We will look at individual possible problems, and ways to check for them.

Steps

1. Check the battery. If you do not have sufficient voltage and cranking power, the car simply won't start. Have someone attach booster cables to your battery if the engine seems to be turning over slower than normal. If the battery seems charged, and the starter motor still doesn't turn the engine, the problem may be in your starter motor itself, or the battery cables. Changing the starter is not too complicated, but if you decide to attempt this, try to find someone who has done it before to help you, or buy a do it yourself manual that has a description and pictures of what you need to do.
   
2. Make sure you have fuel in your tank. Hopefully your fuel gauge is working, but some lose calibration, and will register remaining fuel when the tank is dry. You cannot open a true fuel injected system to look for fuel, but on older cars, you can remove the air filter from the breather housing by taking the wing nut or other fastener off the top and lifting the cover. Here, when you pump the accelerator pedal, you should see gasoline spray into the carburetor throttle body. Some cars have electric fuel pumps situated in the gas tank, and having someone listen at the filler cap while you turn the ignition switch from off to run, they will hear the pump cycle on for a few seconds, then click off when the system pressure reaches the required level. This can tell you if the pump is not working, but changing the fuel pump is a difficult and possibly dangerous project.
   
3. Remove a spark plug wire from your spark plug and use an insulation handled screwdriver to ground the metal fitting inside the spark plug boot to the engine, and have someone turn the engine over while you watch for a spark. You should have the metal screwdriver shaft about an eighth of an inch from a clean metal surface on the engine, and be careful not to touch any uninsulated parts of the tool while testing the plug. If you do not have a spark, you have an ignition circuit problem, and depending on the vintage of your vehicle, you may have to replace anything from a coil wire to an ignition CPU, or computer.
   

Tips

• It is not possible to cover all the reasons a car won't crank in this article, but if you are able to find a do it yourself book at a department store or auto parts supply, or your local library, they can help with specific problems.
  
• Look at the wires, hoses, and other components under the hood. Often, one unplugged wire, or one broken vacuum or fuel line will be the problem, and these are simple and inexpensive to fix.
  
• Check the owner's manual for fuses, relays, and circuit breakers related to either fuel or ignition. You should be able to locate these and make sure they are not tripped or blown. In the relay block, you can exchange relays that are the same size from another component, such as the AC blower, to test the ignition relay.
  
• If the owner's manual doesn't list a fuse or relay for the fuel pump, your car has a mechanical pump, and the only way to check it is to remove a fuel line, and turn the engine over to see if gasoline comes out, but this is very dangerous!
  
• Even when your car doesn't start when you try the ignition, it may show a "code", or information stored in the computer, that can be accessed by a technician to find the source of your problem. This may be a "check engine" light, or other indicator.
  
• Listen to your engine when you crank it. If you hear a knocking sound, backfiring, or misfiring, you may have serious engine problems such as jumped timing, stuck or broken valves, or a flooded carburetor.
  

Warnings

• Do not remove any wires or other electrical parts without disconnecting the negative (-) post of the battery.
  
• Do not remove fuel lines unless you know how to bleed off the pressure in them, injected fuel systems are pressurized, and will blow off gasoline when they are uncoupled.
  
• When testing for spark or doing anything else which requires turning the motor over while looking under the hood, be careful of the fan blades, belts, and other moving parts.
  
• Never turn the engine over or crank it with the breather cover removed. Fuel in the throttle body can ignite!
  

Things You'll Need

• Once again, a do-it-yourself manual, such as Peterson's or Hayne's is more complete and vehicle specific than this article.
  
• Battery tester or jumper cables.
  

Related wikiHows

• How to Fix a Car That Stalls
  
• How to Start a Car
  
• How to Push Start a Car
  
• How to Teach Your Child Simple Car Maintenance and Repair
  
• How to Repair a Lawnmower
  
• How to Fix a Flat Car Tire with Fix a Flat
  

Article provided by wikiHow, a collaborative writing project to build the world's largest, highest quality how-to manual. Please edit this article and find author credits at the original wikiHow article on How to Fix a Car That Doesn't Start. All content on wikiHow can be shared under a Creative Commons license.

How to Change the Oil in Your Car

from wikiHow - The How to Manual That You Can Edit

Regularly changing you car's engine oil and filter is one of the most important things you can do to keep your car running well. Over time your oil breaks down and your filter becomes clogged with contaminants. Depending upon your driving habits, this may take as few as 3 months or 3,000 miles (consult your owner's manual for service intervals). Fortunately, changing your oil is both easy and inexpensive. This article will help you to learn how.

Steps

1. Gather all the necessary supplies and equipment. Under your car with all the oil out is not the time to discover what is missing. It will help to have everything close at hand. Proof of regular oil changes is required to keep your valuable warranty coverage, so save your receipts.
   
2. Find a flat surface suitable for changing your oil. Level driveways or alleys are ideal. Start by getting the car up on the ramps or jack stands (the ground must be solid, like concrete or asphalt). If you're working on a car with a high ground clearance you can just shimmy under. This saves time and is safer: if the car isn't up, it can't fall down! If you do jack up your car, raise it high enough to work comfortably and set your jackstands (in pairs). Be sure to block the back tires with chocks. Chock at least one wheel, both in front and behind it, to prevent the car from rolling either way. The best time to drain the oil is right after driving as the oil will be more liquid, allowing you to remove as much of the old oil as possible (Caution: take great care when working with a hot engine.)
   
3. Before draining out the old oil, you may want to pop the hood of the car and open the oil filler cap on the top of the engine. This will help the oil drain easier because air can flow in as the crankcase drains. Locate the drain plug on the bottom of the oil pan. It is normally towards the back of the engine at the underside of the car, and is angled down. Be sure you don't remove the plug to the transmission (healthy automatic transmission fluid is usually red) or other component. The bolt size will vary from car to car, and is in the 13-30mm range. All Toyotas and Lexus are 14mm (older models may be 13mm), all Mercedes Benz are 13mm, Jaguars are 30mm, older Volvos are 25mm, BMWs are 17mm, VW and Audi are 19mm, Honda and Acura are 17mm. All others are between 13 and 19mm. On some vehicles you may have to remove a shield on the bottom of the vehicle to have access to the oil pan. All Mercedes have a plastic shield held on with six (6) 8mm screws and some pickups and SUVs will have steel skid plates.
   
4. Position whatever you are catching the oil with under the plug, then loosen the bolt. Oil has a tendency to come out of the pan at an angle, so make sure the opening on your container is pretty large. Lay something under the car to catch oil runoff. As the oil comes out of the pan at an angle, it can be tricky to catch, and may land on the ground. If this includes your driveway, you will want some newspaper or a drop cloth to catch it, or you risk an oil stain on your driveway or garage.
   
5. Loosen the plug counter-clockwise using the proper sized socket (or wrench). The fit is especially important if the bolt is tight, which it shouldn't be. If you need more leverage, an extension such as a pipe segment on your ratchet handle can help. If this type of "breaker-bar" arrangement is required it was way too tight. You should also remove and replace the circular paper (or felt) drain plug gasket, but a metal washer can be re-used. Be careful not to drop the plug in the oil, it's a messy job trying to find the plug in the black stuff.
   
   • If you do drop it in the pan, you can easily find it with a magnet. Ideally, use the type that is at the end of an expandable rod.
     
   • Another easy way to "save" the drain plug is to use a funnel with a bit of screening in it. Catch the plug as it falls out. You can then pull the funnel out of the way of the stream and set it to one side.
     
   
   
6. Some vehicles (such as BMW, Mercedes, newer Volvos, etc) may have a filter element or cartridge as opposed to the simpler spin-on type. They require you to open the cap of a built-in resevoir and lift out the filter element itself.
   
7. Locate the filter assembly. This can be a tough part. Filters are not put in a standard position, and they can be on the front, back and side of engines. Look at the filter you purchased to replace the old one and look for something similar. Once you have located it, remove it from the engine. This can be tough, and often seems too hard. They are not supposed to be tight. If it is, once you get a good grip slow and steady twisting can sometimes get it to begin to spin. If you can't get it off by hand, use an oil filter wrench. Keep trying. It will eventually come off. There may be some residual oil in the filter, so be careful not to spill it and have a pan underneath to catch the drips.
   
   • When removing the oil filter, make sure that the rubber gasket ring comes off with the filter. If you don't and it sticks to the car, the new filter won't seal properly and will leak.
     
   • When installing the new filter, remove all packaging, then dip the tip of your finger in the new oil and smear it on the gasket ring of the new filter. If you use the old oil, it may contain buildup that will wear away between the gasket and the car and eventually become a leak.
     
   • You might pour some oil into the filter prior to installing it. This can reduce the amount of time your car takes to regain proper oil pressure. If your filter is mounted vertically, you may be able to fill it almost to the top. If it is at an angle, you may be able to get just a few tablespoons worth in, just to saturate the filter media. It's actually not necessary if the car has not been stored, there is enough oil left on the bearings to lubricate until pressure is built up; if you'll notice, no garages pre-fill the filter.
     
   
   
8. Replace the drain plug on the oil pan. Don't forget to install a replacement gasket. Start threading it with your fingers so as not to cross the threads, and it should be snug, but no need to be super-tight.
   
9. Carefully screw on the new, lubricated filter, being careful to not cross the threads. With the paper cartridge filters, they will always come with at least one o-ring, sometimes as many as four different ones. Make sure to replace all of them to ensure that they will not leak. The filter will generally say how tight to tighten it. Go until the gasket touches, then however far it says it should be. This is usually 1/2 or 3/4 of a turn after the gasket touches.
   
10. Add new oil to the car at the fill hole. The number of quarts you need is in the owner's manual, usually listed under "capacities". Don't always rely on the dip stick for an accurate measurement; it can be off, especially if the engine has just been run (the stick will read low because there is still oil in the galleries). If you want to check the stick accurately, just check it first thing in the morning, parked on a level surface, when it's cold and settled. It's a relative thing.
    
    • If you hold the bottle with the spout on top, as shown, it will pour more smoothly, without bubbling.
      
    
    
11. Replace the fill cap, check around for tools and close the hood.
    
12. Start the engine, watching to be sure the oil pressure light goes off after start-up, and be sure to look under the car while the engine is running (put car in park or neutral with the parking brake on) to check for any drips. If the filter and drain plug aren't tight, they may leak slowly. Run the engine for a minute or so.
    

Tips

• Be sure you have purchased the right filter and have all the tools you need before starting. It's a pain to have to run back to the store in the middle of the job, especially since you won't be able to use your car.
  
• It's helpful to have a friend who has done this before around for assistance.
  
• To avoid getting oil all over your arm when removing the drain plug bolt, apply inward force (as if you are trying to push the plug back into the hole) while removing it. When you know that bolt is fully unscrewed, quickly pull it away from the opening. If you're lucky only a few drops will get on your hand. Tie a rag around your wrist when you remove the oil plug. Oil might get all over your hands, but it won't go all the way down your arm, making it a messy clean up. Also, have pumice or citrus hand-cleaner, or consider using disposable gloves to keep your hands perfectly clean. Latex rubber will decay quickly in oil, so nitrile or another material is a better choice.
  
• For a very stubborn filter, using a hammer and a large screwdriver as a sort of "chisel" can push the filter counter-clockwise. Be advised: once you punch hole in this thin filter wall, the engine cannot be started until it's replaced.
  
• There are some oil drain valves on the market that replace your normal drain pan bolt. These can make oil changes much more convenient and can reduce the amount of mess you make.
  
• To avoid spilling too much oil as you remove the filter, wrap a plastic bag around the filter, which will catch any oil that escapes as you remove it. Before disposing of the old filter, it is best to get all possible oil out. This can be done by suspending it upside-down on a heavy wire mesh set across your oil catch basin. As a last step, taking your time (because warm used oil is thin, ie, low viscosity), pour it through a big funnel into gallon jugs. They can be coolant, windshield-washer fluid, anything with a secure screw cap. Leave a few inches of room at the top. Don't allow these containers to sit in sunlight too long, the plastic can get very brittle.
  
• You can lower your cost by buying cheaper oil and filters if you so choose. Remember, though, to always make sure that the oil you use fulfills the car manufacturer's requirements as stated in the manual. Be sure to use the oil specified in the owners manual as to viscosity. That's the number that looks like "10w-30". A lower "W" rating means the oil is formulated to flow better in cold. Below freezing, a 5w oil is preferred. Below 0°F (-18°C), a synthetic 0w oil is worth considering.
  
• Draining your oil with the engine still warm can speed up the draining process. Be careful not to let the hot oil get on your skin.
  

Warnings

• Recycle your oil or store it if you have to. Dumping it on the ground is not cool and is illegal. Your local auto store or garage will take your used oil for free, in most cases. Many of them heat their garages with waste oil so they are happy to get it.
  
• Instead of lifting the car, you can park over a trench or ditch or with two wheels up on a curb. Be sure to take every safety precaution while doing this (use the emergency brake, block the wheels, make sure the tires are completely stable on the ground, etc.).
  
• It is unsafe to work on a car that is still on a jack. Instead, use jack stands (never cinder blocks) and do the whole thing on a level concrete surface.
  
• Be careful not to burn yourself! Your engine, the used oil inside it, and other parts of the car can stay hot enough to burn you for a long time after you turn the ignition off.
  
• Refer to your owner's manual for jack/lift instructions; improper jack placement can damage your car badly.
  
• This how-to is not meant for all cars, and certainly shouldn't be your only source of information. Always consult your owner's manual for manufacturer's recommendations when determining your maintenance schedule.
  
• Don't get the oil inlet confused with the transmission fluid inlet. You can ruin your transmission if you put oil in it.
  
• If you don't use the correct wrench on the drain plug bolt you run the risk of "rounding it off" (destroying the head of the bolt).
  
• Do NOT over-tighten the new filter. Always tighten it by hand and not with a wrench.
  
• If your newer vehicle has synthetic oil STAY synthetic. You can mix conventional and synthetic in your older car, but NEVER go back to only conventional once synthetic is introduced. Seal and gasket failure may result. Likewise, don't switch to synthetic if you have an older car that has used conventional oil until now.
  
• Don't overfill; that can cause foaming or spills.
  
• Be careful with additives, synthetic oils, etc. Many of these products are more marketing than substance, and some can void your warranty or harm your vehicle. Check with the service people at your dealership first.
  
• Check with your owner's manual on selecting the correct weight (0-40w, 10w-30 etc) and type of oil (Organic, Synthetic). Many high performance vehicles (especially those with turbochargers) require synthetic oil of a specified weight. Running organic oil or the wrong weight may cause damage.
  

Things You'll Need

• Oil (check your owner's manual for specific weight and quantity needed). Most cars use 4-6 quarts. Also, make sure you use oil that meets the API performance rating for your vehicle. Most vehicles made since 2004 require rating "SM", which is better than the oil that was available when older cars were made. Always use the newest and latest spec oil available.
  
• Socket wrench (for foreign cars you will likely need a metric set).
  
• Oil filter (contact your local auto parts store for specific model of filter). Expensive ones do not clean oil any better. The ones that have a grippy coating are easier to install and tighten.
  
• Oil filter wrench. There are different size oil wrenches available depending on the diameter of the filter. The expensive one that is double articulated is the surest one to use.
  
• A way to get your car off the ground (ramps or a jack & jack stands work best).
  
• Something to catch the used oil in, and a funnel and sturdy gallon jugs to transport it.
  
• Oil rags or paper towel.
  
• Some vehicles require you to remove top or bottom panels, which might require additional tools.
  

Related wikiHows

• How to Change the Oil in Your Car from the Top of the Engine
  
• How to Change the Oil and Oil Filter on a Motorcycle
  
• How to Switch to Synthetic Motor Oil
  
• How to Change Spark Plugs in a Car
  
• How to Inspect Your Suspension System
  
• How to Fix a Car That Stalls
  
• How to Switch the Wheels on a Car
  
• How to Store a Car
  
• How to Change a Car Battery
  
• How to Air out Your Car While Driving.
  
• How to Change a Fuel Filter
  
• How to Change Your Air Filter
  

Sources and Citations

• Changing your oil, the video.
  

Article provided by wikiHow, a collaborative writing project to build the world's largest, highest quality how-to manual. Please edit this article and find author credits at the original wikiHow article on How to Change the Oil in Your Car. All content on wikiHow can be shared under a Creative Commons license.

How to Make a Car Spin

from wikiHow - The How to Manual That You Can Edit


This article is a stub. You can help by expanding and clarifying it. Notice added on 2006-04-07.
Though this is a dangerous maneuver, you may want to make your car spin at some point.

Steps

1. Use the Handbrake. Accelerate (start out slow until you get the hang of it), then turn the steering wheel sharply to the side while pulling up the Handbrake (applying the clutch will give you a better spin). The car will spin if done correctly.
   
2. Another method can be done using a manual, rear-wheel drive car. Slip the clutch as you turn hard to one side, and then let it in while accelerating. To come out, take your foot slowly off the accelerator, and counter-steer. Be careful not to over-correct, or you can fishtail in the other direction. Done properly, this is an effective way to make a car drift.
   
3. Be sure to pull the emergency brake just a second after you turn the wheel, otherwise you may just skid forward.
   

Tips

• Don't do this if there are cops around.
  
• Try it in the winter time in an icy parking lot. During other times of the year, dirt, grass, and snow are a little bit safer and easier than a parking lot or street. Make sure it's a very large space.
  
• If you have a rear-wheel drive car, this will work much better. If you drive a front wheel drive car, you will still be able to do it, it will just require more precise timing. If you have an all-wheel drive car, it will be pretty difficult. If your car has traction control, turn it off - traction control will "correct" the spin.
  
• Front-wheel drive cars can be spun easily by starting in reverse. Simply accelerate and turn the wheel sharply.
  
• Don't forget to engage the clutch while hand-braking a rear drive car
  
• If you Pull the handbrake hard for extended lengths of time, the locking of the car's wheels can cause a flat spot on the tire.
  
• In a Front Wheel Drive you can also use trays. If you can obtain trays (ones like they use at Mcdonalds etc..) you put the trays at the rear wheels and apply the hand-break. accelerate and turn. as you drive you can get a sense of what drifting is like.
  

Warnings

• Avoid public roads - you could wreck your car and injure yourself as well as others. Only do this in a secluded off-road area.
  
• Do not do this in an SUV, van or truck. Your vehicle will probably flip. It would be safest in a car with lowered suspension. Don't forget: under certain conditions (rough surfaces, tire failure, high speeds), just about any car will flip.
  
• This is fun, but use moderation; spinning your car a lot can result in damage to your drive-train and tires. If you spin into anything, especially a curb, the damage is likely to disable your car. Frame damage is frequently impossible to repair.
  

Related wikiHows

• How to Drive a Car
  
• How to Fix a Car That Stalls
  
• How to Install A Car Radio Head Unit
  
• How to Switch the Wheels on a Car
  
• How to Change the Oil in Your Car
  
• How to Store a Car
  
• How to Avoid Being Carjacked
  
• How to Hotwire a Car
  

Article provided by wikiHow, a collaborative writing project to build the world's largest, highest quality how-to manual. Please edit this article and find author credits at the original wikiHow article on How to Make a Car Spin. All content on wikiHow can be shared under a Creative Commons license.