The difference in tire sizes.

How to Tell the Size Difference on a Car Tire

from wikiHow - The How to Manual That You Can Edit

Understand and decode the markings on tires.

Steps

1. Look at the letter/number combination on the tire. Most tire sizes begin with a letter or letters that identify the type of vehicle and/or type of service for which they were designed. The common indicators are as follows:
   
   • P225/50R16 91S
     
     • P = When a tire size begins with a "P," it signifies the tire is a "P-metric" size that was designed to be fitted on vehicles that are primarily used as passenger vehicles. This includes cars, minivans, sport utility vehicles and light duty pickup trucks (typically 1/4- and 1/2-ton load capacity). The use of P-metric sizes began in the late 1970s and they are the most frequently used type of tire size today.
       
     • /50R16 92S = If there isn't a letter preceding the three-digit numeric portion of a tire size, it signifies the tire is a "Metric" size (also called "Euro-metric" because these sizes originated in Europe). While Metric tire sizes are primarily used on European cars, they are also used on vans and sport utility vehicles. Euro-metric sizes are dimensionally equivalent to P-metric sizes, but typically differ subtly in load carrying capabilities.
       
     
     
   • T125/90D16 98M
     
     • T = If a tire size begins with a "T," it signifies the tire is a "Temporary Spare" ("space saver" or "mini spare") that was designed to be used temporarily only until a flat tire can be repaired or replaced.
       
     
     
   • LT245/75R16 108/104S
     
     • LT = If a tire size begins with "LT," it signifies the tire is a "Light Truck-metric" size that was designed to be used on vehicles that are capable of carrying heavy cargo or towing large trailers. This includes medium and heavy-duty (typically 3/4- and 1-ton load capacity) pickup trucks, sport utility vehicles and full-size vans. Tires branded with the "LT" designation are the "little brothers" of 18-wheel tractor-trailer tires and are designed to provide substantial reserve capacity to accept the additional stresses of carrying heavy cargo.
       
     
     
   • 50R16LT 112/107Q, 8.75R16.5LT 104/100Q or 31x10.50R15LT 109Q
     
     • LT = If a tire ends with "LT," it signifies the tire is either an earlier "Numeric", "Wide Base" or "Flotation" Light Truck size designed to be used on vehicles that are capable of carrying heavy cargo and towing trailers (Numeric sizes), use 16.5-inch diameter rims (Wide Base sizes) or are wider, oversized tires designed to help the vehicle drive on top of loose dirt or sandy surfaces (Flotation sizes). This includes light, medium and heavy-duty (typically 1/2-, 3/4 and 1-ton load capacity) pickup trucks and sport utility vehicles. Tires branded with the "LT" at the end of their size designation are also the "little brothers" of 18-wheel tractor-trailer tires and are designed to provide substantial reserve capacity to accept the additional stresses of carrying heavy cargo.
       
     
     
   • /70R15C 104/102R
     
     • C = If a Euro-metric sized tire ends with a "C," it signifies the tire is a "Commercial" tire intended to be used on vans or delivery trucks that are capable of carrying heavy loads. In addition to being branded with the "C" in their size, these tires are also branded with their appropriate Service Description and "Load Range" (Load Range B, Load Range C or Load Range D).
       
     
     
   • ST225/75R15
     
     • ST = If a tire size begins with "ST," it signifies the tire is a "Special Trailer Service" size that was designed to only be used on boat, car or utility trailers. ST-sized tires should never be used on cars, vans or light trucks.
       
     
     
   
   
2. Look at the three-digit numeric portion. This identifies the tire's Section Width (cross section) in millimeters.
   
   • P225/50R16 91S. The 225 indicates this tire is 225 millimeters across from the widest point of its outer sidewall to the widest point of its inner sidewall when mounted and measured on a specified width wheel. This measurement is also referred to as the tire's section width. Because many people think of measurements in inches, the 225mm can be converted to inches by dividing the section width in millimeters by 25.4 (the number of millimeters per inch). mm / 25.4 = 8.86"
     
   
   
3. Look at the two-digit number following the Section Width number. This is the Sidewall Aspect Ratio.
   
   • P225/50R16 91S. The 50 indicates that this tire size's sidewall height (from rim to tread) is 50% of its section width. The measurement is the tire's section height, and also referred to as the tire's series, profile or aspect ratio. The higher the number, the taller the sidewall; the lower the number, the lower the sidewall. We know that this tire size's section width is 225mm and that its section height is 50% of 225mm. By converting the 225mm to inches (225 / 25.4 = 8.86") and multiplying it by 50% (.50) we confirm that this tire size results in a tire section height of 4.43". If this tire were a P225/70R16 size, our calculation would confirm that the size would result in a section height of 6.20", approximately a 1.8-inch taller sidewall.
     
   
   
4. Look at the letter following the numbers -- it identifies the tire's internal construction.
   
   • P225/50R16, P225/50ZR16. The R in the P225/50R16 91S size identifies that the tire has a Radial construction in which the tire's body plies "radiate" out from the imaginary center of the wheel. Radial tires are by far the most popular type of tire today representing over 98% of all tires sold.
     
   • If the R in the size was replaced with a D (225/50D16), it would identify that the internal tire body plies crisscross on a Diagonal and that the tire has a "bias ply" construction. Tires using this construction are for light truck and spare tire applications.
     
   • If the R in the size was replaced with a B (225/50B16), it would identify that the tire body plies not only crisscross the tire on a diagonal as before, but that they are reinforced with belts under the tread area. This type of tire construction is called "Belted." Tires using this construction are practically extinct.
     
   
   
5. Look for the Speed Rating. Today, the only tires that continue to include the speed rating "in" the tire size (P225/50ZR16) are Z-speed rated tires. In this case, following the two digits used to identify the aspect ratio are the letters ZR to identify the tire's speed rating (Z) and its internal construction (R). Since 1991, all other speed ratings are identified in the tire's Service Description (which will be covered shortly).
   
6. Consider the Tire and Wheel Diameter.
   
   • P225/50R16 91S. The 16 indicates the tire and wheel diameter designed to be matched together.
     
   • Tires that have a rim diameter expressed in inches (P225/50R16, as well as 8, 10, 12, 13, 14, 15, 17, 18, 19, 20, 22, 23, 24, 26 and 28) are called "inch rim" sizes, are the most common type of tire size and are used on most cars, minivans, vans, sport utility vehicles and light duty light trucks. While not as common, two additional "unique" types of tire/wheel diameters are still in use today.
     
     • Tires and wheels that have a rim diameter expressed in "half" inches (8.00R16.5LT, as well as, 14.5, 15.5, 17.5 and 19.5) are used on some heavy-duty trailers, heavy-duty light trucks and box vans.
       
     • Tires and wheels that have a rim diameter expressed in millimeters (190/65R390, as well as, 365 and 415) are called millimetric sizes. Michelin initiated millimetric sizes for their TRX tires that saw limited use on many different car models in the late 1970s and 1980s.
       
     • Michelin PAX System run flat tires have been introduced as an integrated wheel/tire system on a very limited basis as Original Equipment (O.E.) in North America. An example PAX System size of 235/710R460A 104T expresses tire and wheel dimensions in millimeters (235 mm Section Width, tire Overall Diameter of 710 mm and a 460A mm rim diameter, with the "A" in 460A signifying these tires feature "asymmetric" beads in which the outside bead (450 mm) and inside bead (470 mm) are actually different diameters.
       
     • All of these "unique" tire/wheel diameters were developed specifically because the tire and wheel design or intended vehicle use required them to be different than conventional tires and wheels. All of these tires and wheels feature bead profiles that have a different shape than traditional "inch rim" sizes.
       
     
     
   
   

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• How to Change a Tire
  
• How to Fix a Flat Car Tire with Fix a Flat
  
• How to Check Your Car Tire Wear
  

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Clean water marks off your car

How to Take Water Marks Off Vehicles

from wikiHow - The How to Manual That You Can Edit

It's difficult to take water marks off vehicles, once they dry up. Best way to avoid them is not to allow them form, that is, wipe them off before drying, while they are still wet.

Steps

1. Always keep a clean, soft, dry piece of cloth ready in your vehicle.
   
2. Wipe off any water mark, as soon as they appear.
   
3. If you have noticed it when it has already dried or formed, rinse the area with fresh/clean water and wipe off while still wet. For stubborn marks, car wash solutions or light detergent solution will help.
   
4. Start with a cool to the touch vehicle wash as you normally would. Rinse well
   
5. Wash again with water and white vinegar, this will remove all wax, and mineral deposits from finish and glass. Rinse and follow up with a good grade polish and wax.
   

Tips

• Start at the top and work your way down
  
• Never let the soap or vinegar start to dry out.
  
• It's difficult to take water marks off vehicles, once they dry up. Best way to avoid them is not to allow them form, that is, wipe them off before drying, while they are still wet.
  
• The use of grease cutting dish soap such as Dawn will help remove road grime and water stains, while providing a barrier to prevent buildup with each car wash at home, however this will strip the wax off and you will need to wax after.
  

Warnings

• Never try to forcibly wipe off dry marks.
  
• Never use stain removers, spirit or any alcohol containing cleaner.
  
• Don't use anything, such as a brillo pad, to clean: they will scratch the paint.
  
• Using Grease Cutting dish soap or Vinegar will remove all wax from your paint and leave your paint unprotected; you should re-wax your car every time you wash it with dish soap or find a milder car wash soap to protect the paint.
  

Things You'll Need

• A clean, soft, dry piece of cloth
  
• White vinegar
  

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• How to Remove Wax from Clothing
  

Article provided by wikiHow, a collaborative writing project to build the world's largest, highest quality how-to manual. Please edit this article and find author credits at the original wikiHow article on How to Take Water Marks Off Vehicles. All content on wikiHow can be shared under a Creative Commons license.

Go Off Roading

How to Go off Roading

from wikiHow - The How to Manual That You Can Edit

Want to go off-roading? If you're a first time 4 wheeler then there are things you'll need to know.

Steps

1. Get an off road vehicle if you don't have one already.-Older Jeeps are the best.-New Wranglers are good but they cost a lot!-The best off road vehicles are small with lots of ground clearance.-BIG Trucks aren't good. They are just too big to fit on trails.
   
2. Get supplies for you and your vehicle. (Extra oil, spare tire, jack, water, and things for you in case of that small chance you get stuck and have to hike back)
   
3. For beginners, find a easy trail, but not just a flat dirt road. Old Mountain Back roads that aren't used often are usually good for beginners.
   
4. Once arrived at the start of the trail, engage your vehicle's 4x4 option.
   
5. Start down the trail.
   
6. Watch for rocks in the center of the trail, some may be too big to straddle. If you try drive straight over a rock that is too big you can damage the bottom of your vehicle. You could also hit the oil pan and then your vehicle is stuck.
   
7. Learn your vehicle's wheel location and placement. This will help you go over difficult spots without a spotter to tell you where to drive up. Still, a spotter always helps. A good way to do this is setup aluminum soda cans in a parking lot, and then try to crush them with the passenger side tires. Successfully doing this in reverse a few times is really helpful if you find yourself at the dead end of a wrong trail.
   
8. Know Your limits. Don't become someone with "Jeep Ego". Some people with Jeeps think they can go anywhere and get themselves stuck.
   
9. Complete your trail!
   

Tips

• It's always better to go with another vehicle so one can help the other if one gets stuck.
  
• Vehicles with a solid front axle are better. It gives you more flexibility when off-roading. Independent front suspension vehicles are generally more comfortable on the road, but will struggle more off the road.
  
• Lower your tires to around 15 PSI. This makes them "squish" around rocks and get more traction, but it's not required.
  
• Get a vehicle with a limited slip differential or a locking differential. This allows a vehicle to provide power to a wheel even when the other wheel on the same axle is spinning without any traction. This will help you when you are climbing over rocks and one wheel lifts into the air.
  
• Most cameras don't effectively take pictures of depths, so if you want to show off to your friends you'll have to get a special camera. Rocks look smaller on camera than what they did when you went over them.
  
• Bring a tow strap. You may need to tow someone out, or get yourself out. A winch may prove to be helpful as well.
  
• Help other people if they are stuck, wouldn't you like help if you were stuck?
  

Warnings

• Straddling big rocks. You could damage your vehicle or get stuck.
  
• Rolling your vehicle. Off-road vehicles have a higher center of gravity due to their height, so they are especially prone to tipping over.
  
• Water holes. You never know how deep the water is, or the mud under it. A 4,000 pound vehicle will sink like a rock. Even if a stick or branch only sinks 8". Your HEAVY vehicle may sink 8 feet.
  

Things You'll Need

• Off road vehicle (4x4)
  
• Extra oil
  
• Extra water (for you and the vehicle, in case it overheats)
  
• Tow strap
  
• Time
  
• Gasoline
  
• Spare tire
  
• Jack
  
• 4-Way to get tire off if it's flat.
  
• Camera (optional)
  

Related wikiHows

• How to Identify Cars
  

Article provided by wikiHow, a collaborative writing project to build the world's largest, highest quality how-to manual. Please edit this article and find author credits at the original wikiHow article on How to Go off Roading. All content on wikiHow can be shared under a Creative Commons license.

Jump your battery

How to Jump Your Battery

from wikiHow - The How to Manual That You Can Edit

A battery has a negative terminal and positive terminal. Each terminal will be labeled with a symbol. A plus sign (+) indicates positive, and a minus sign (-) indicates negative. On a top-post battery, the posts are located on the top of the battery, and the positive post is larger than the negative post. On most vehicles, the existing battery cables are red and black. Black is negative, red is positive. On a side-post battery, the posts are located on the side of the battery. Always observe the color of the cables and the negative and positive symbols.

Steps

1. Get a working vehicle. Bring it to the disabled vehicle.
   
2. Verify that both the dead battery and the rescue battery have the same voltage. Car batteries are usually 12 Volts. Truck batteries are usually 24 Volts.
   
3. Position the vehicles so that the car batteries are close enough to each other for your jumper cables to reach each one. Make sure the cars are not touching.
   
4. Turn off both engines. Open the hood of each of the cars.
   
5. Turn off the headlights, wipers, radios, and all accessories on both cars. Unplug anything charging in the cigarette lighter.
   
6. Untangle and unwind the jumper cables. The jaws of the cable clamps are designed to bite into the soft metal of the battery clamps that are attached to the battery terminal posts.
   
7. If goggles or gloves are available, put them on now. Have anyone not wearing safety equipment stand clear of both vehicles.
   
8. Visually check both batteries for cracks, leaks, and damage. If any of these exist, STOP. Call a tow truck, do not attempt to jump the car, do not even connect the cables.
   
9. Connect a red clamp first to the positive post on the dead battery. Then connect the other red clamp to the positive post on the good battery.
   
10. Connect a black clamp to the negative post of the good battery.
    
11. Connect the only remaining clamp (a black clamp for the dead battery) to a solid piece of grounded metal on the dead car. Avoid connecting this clamp to the negative post of the dead battery--do this only as a last resort. (See tips for suggestions on what to clamp to)
    
12. Start the working vehicle.
    
13. Let it idle for ~5 minutes. Never race the engine. If idle is not enough to charge the dead battery then it's not going to charge.
    
14. Try to start the disabled vehicle. If it doesn't start, wait five minutes and try again. Repeat until the disabled vehicle starts.
    
15. Remove the jumper cables from the vehicles in the reverse order from when you attached them.
    
16. Keep the recently-disabled vehicle's engine running a little above idle for at least five minutes, then on or at least at idle for at least twenty.
    

Tips

• When looking for a good ground for that last clamp, look for shiny metal around or on the engine. Painted, oily, or rusted metal will not work. Nuts, bolts, or other protruding shiny metal is best. There may be some sparking when you connect to a good ground. It's strongly recommended not to clip the last clamp to the dead battery (which would be an obvious choice) as the sparks that may fly when you complete the electrical circuit could ignite the hydrogen gas coming off the battery.
  
• Don't connect the black leads first and the red leads afterwards: if you would do that and accidentally drop the red cable onto the car's frame, a massive short-circuit will form, possibly welding the clamp to the chassis.
  
• It may be necessary to remove the disabled automobile's battery cables from the battery terminals and clean both cables and terminals. Use a stiff wire brush to remove all corrosion. Reconnect the cables to the battery terminals and jump the car.
  
• Do not use cheap jumping cables with thin wire. Use good heavy-duty jumping cables.
  
• Don't let the working vehicle leave for at least ten minutes. The dead battery must charge for a while, and sometimes will go dead again (especially if you do not keep the engine above idle).
  
• Remember that batteries are not always in the same place. Some vehicles have the battery under the hood, some behind the cab, and some are even in the trunk.
  
• Look at your jumper cables. Many will have instructions with pictures explaining the order to attach the clamps.
  

Warnings

• Never cross the cables while attached to a car battery.
  
• Make sure you are connected to the right posts.
  
• A charging or discharging battery creates hydrogen gas, which under the right circumstances will cause the battery to explode. This is why one must avoid connecting two batteries directly to one another (all four clamps on battery posts). Use this as a last resort when the primary method fails and you have taken proper safety precautions. Make sure you stand clear. There may be sparks which can cause an explosion.
  
• Keep your face as far away from the batteries as you can at all times.
  
• Tell people to back off. Batteries can explode if you don't do the job right.
  
• Always protect your eyes with goggles or other protection.
  
• If the alternator in the working car is either worn or very small there's a small chance it will break during this operation.
  

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• How to Add a Car Dealer License to an Existing Automotive Business
  
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• How to Merge Onto the Highway Without Crashing
  
• How to Fix an Ignition Key That Doesn't Turn
  
• How to Solve Some Mysteries About Air Cooled Engines Ignition Systems
  

Sources and Citations

• Jump-Starting a Car — Printable Reference Sheet
  

Article provided by wikiHow, a collaborative writing project to build the world's largest, highest quality how-to manual. Please edit this article and find author credits at the original wikiHow article on How to Jump Your Battery. All content on wikiHow can be shared under a Creative Commons license.

Replace your windshield

How to Replace Your Automobile Windshield

from wikiHow - The How to Manual That You Can Edit

This article is published for the purpose of educating the reader on the techniques and principles of auto glass installations and explaining the Aftermarket Auto Glass industry, for the purpose of helping the reader to make an educated decision in choosing a quality professional to replace their auto glass. This article is written to explain the process of aftermarket auto glass installations and is not to be used as a teaching tool or to instruct the reader on windshield installations. Your windshield is a safety device and should only be installed by a qualified professional. Due to the many manufacturers and various designs of automobiles this book is not written to be a complete explanation of the automotive industry’s auto glass technology.
"Your Windshield is a Safety Device"
"Your Windshield Can Save Your Life" by Raymond Clough

Steps

1. Remove the side and top moldings correctly. Don't pry the clips that hold them on; these clips are small plastic pieces specific for the vehicle and its molding. This saves time, but the result is that the molding will need to be glued on if no replacement clips are on hand. Time saved ten minutes or more and about $5.00 for the clips. Most are simple and totally astetic in value and are just an inch of plastic which is attached to the windshield. They do nothing for the windshield except make it look nice. Some are extremely complex with plastic clips and clamps which hold the molding securely to the windshield.
   
2. Cut out the windshield. This can take anywhere from fifteen minutes to almost an hour. The urethane which holds the windshield in place is flexible but extremely strong; this allows the glass to move and not crack from every stress placed on it during driving.
   
   • Use a cold knife to cut the urethane from the outside between the glass and the pinchweld. The major problem with this is when the previous installation has placed the glass close to the pinchweld and not allowing for sufficient space for the blade to drag it will break the glass causing shattering. Most often an aftermarket glass which has been pushed down too far to the pinchweld leaving only 1/8” or less for the cold knife blade to cut through. This causes the glass to break, shattering glass and making a mess.
     
   • Often the glass pieces will fall down into the defroster vent to be blown out later. Cutting the windshield out from the inside of the vehicle is the only other option. Using a special extended handle razor knife the urethane is cut with a repeated dragging motion. Many installers use power cutters which are faster but do more damage to the metal of the vehicle, scratching the paint in the pinchweld area is not a problem if the scratch is painted with a pinchweld primer which must be matched to the urethane.
     
   • This stuff is tough up to 1000 psi. Practice is the key, how much pressure to put on the razor without breaking it. How long to make your strokes so you don’t slip and cut the dash board or the head liner. It all takes practice but when you are not relying on repeat customers you can do it fast. The pinchweld has the old urethane about ¼” thick more or less and it needs to be trimmed down to 3/16” or about 3 mm.
     
   
   
3. Prepare the glass with a primer specially matched to the urethane adhesive. The purpose of the primer is to open the molecules of the frit band (the black band around the perimeter of the windshield) this is done to prepare the glass to accept the molecules of the urethane. If your installer is in a hurry, ignorant or just does not care if your windshield pops out he will skip this step. After the glass is activated, the molding is attached to the glass and the urethane is next.
   
4. Apply the urethane with an electric caulking gun. (Insert Picture) The best thing for the new urethane to adhere to is the old urethane. (Insert Picture of contaminated pinchweld under the molding) It must be clean and free from dirt, oil or other contaminants. A problem installers have is wind blowing dust onto the pinchweld before the urethane adhesive has been applied. This wind is caused from not only the weather conditions but other vehicles including the big trucks.
   
5. Place the windshield in, carefully aligning the top bottom and sides by sight alone. Some vehicles have mounting block for the bottom of the windshield to rest on some do not. Careful not to touch the frit band because the oils and dirt from your hands can contaminate the activated glass and reduce the effectiveness of the activator. Use gloves, either latex or Nitrile to eliminate contaminates from reducing the ...
   

Warnings

• The author shall have neither liability nor responsibility to any person or entity with respect to any loss or damage caused or alleged to be cause directly or indirectly by the information contained in this article or by any information omitted from this book of the subject matter contained herein.
  

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Article provided by wikiHow, a collaborative writing project to build the world's largest, highest quality how-to manual. Please edit this article and find author credits at the original wikiHow article on How to Replace Your Automobile Windshield. All content on wikiHow can be shared under a Creative Commons license.

Race your car at the Drag Strip

How to Race Your Car at the Dragstrip

from wikiHow - The How to Manual That You Can Edit

Many people like to take the car that they drive everyday to their local drag strip and make a few passes down the track. Some build dedicated track-only, non-street legal cars, and still others modify their street-legal cars to be a cross between a race car and a street car. These cars are most often referred to as Street/Strip cars. This article is mainly for those that have never raced before, and outlines the basics of drag racing your car, whether it's your daily driver or a street/strip car. Dedicated racecars usually have special equipment installed, such as delay boxes, trans brakes, and dry-sump oil systems, and will not be covered here.

Steps

1. If you are new at this, it's best to go on a day or night when the track is hosting a "street-legal drags" type of event, where all street-legal cars are welcome regardless of engine size, tire type, etc.
   
2. Call your local dragstrip and ask them if they are holding an event where you may bring your street-legal car to race just for fun. Ask about the price of admission and any additional charges (tech card, parking, etc) and also inquire as to whether or not they will be giving out time slips after each race. Most of the time they will, however during some events your time will only be displayed on the board at the end of the track, and no timeslip will be given. If this is the case and you want to know how fast your car is, you should have a friend stand near the track to record your time and speed after each run. If you've never been to a dragstrip before, ask if they have a website you can go to and view a layout of their facility so that you may familiarize yourself with the individual areas that make up the track. If not, ask for a map once you arrive.
   
3. Get your car set up to race. Inspect, change, or top off all oils and fluids. Check your brakes, steering, and suspension for wear and repair if needed before you race. If you have a nitrous system, have your bottle filled before you go. Alternatively, most tracks have nitrous available on site, however expect to pay more for it, as well as for fuel. Put whatever tires you are going to race with on your car, and set them to the proper air pressure. If you are going to drive to the track on one set of tires and install race-only tires when you arrive, set the tire pressures on both sets to the proper specs. Don't fill your fuel tank all the way, as it will make your car heavier than necessary. Ideally, you want to race a street car with a 1/4 tank or less depending on the vehicle and size of the tank. Be careful not to run out of fuel completely. Once you feel your vehicle is ready to begin racing, drive to the track.
   
4. Once at the track, pay your entrance fee, find a spot to park and walk to the signup area. Depending on the event there will be some paperwork there for you to sign, and you will probably get an arm band or similar identification indicating that you've registered and are authorized to race. Go back to your car and move to the staging lanes if racing has begun.
   
5. If you've never raced before, look at the layout you obtained and see where the staging lanes are. These will be located at the beginning of the dragstrip, and are clearly marked with painted lane stripes and numbers. Ask a track attendant for help if you can't find them. Follow all directions from track attendants carefully to avoid a collision, and remember top speed is 10 MPH in this area at most tracks. A track attendant will come alongside your car to make sure you've registered, and depending on the event, you may or may not get a number on your car window. Mentally prepare to go racing at this point, and make sure your car is set up to do so also. You may wait a while in the lanes, so although it's okay to get out of your car and chat with other racers, make sure to stay near your vehicle so that you can move it forward at any time. Don't be afraid to ask other racers questions. With few exceptions, they'll be willing to help and provide advice to you.
   
6. Near the end of the staging lanes, watch other cars from your lane and see where they pull up to. Some will drive through the "water box" (wet area for doing burnouts), others will drive around it. If you have street tires, it's best to drive around it and proceed onto the dragstrip. With slicks, drive into it and wait for the signal to do your burnout. In either case, don't do anything until a crewman signals you that it's okay to proceed. Generally, one person will signal you to pull out of the staging lane onto the track, where another will wave you forward. Slowly drive around or into the water box, and continue to follow hand signals. If doing a burnout, wait for the signal from a crewmember.
   
7. Now, pull up to the starting line and watch the "Christmas Tree" (display of lights at the beginning of the track, between the two lanes.) Each lane has it's own set of lights in order from top to bottom: 2 small bulbs at the very top of the tree (Pre-Stage), 2 identical small ones under that (Stage), 3 large amber bulbs, a green bulb, and a red bulb. Roll you car forward slowly until the first set of bulbs are lit (Pre-stage), this indicates your front tire are approximately seven inches from the starting line. Continue to creep forward until the second set of small bulbs are lit (Staged), then stop.
   
8. Depending on the tree, either all three amber bulbs will light at once followed 0.4 seconds later by the green (this is called a Pro-Tree), or the three amber bulbs will flash consecutively 0.5 seconds apart followed by the green coming on 0.5 seconds after the last amber (this is called a Sportsman or Full tree.) When you see the green light, GO! Keep racing until you reach the finish line, at which point you should begin to slow down and decide which turn-off you are going to take. If you have smoked your competitor, make sure you have his/her vehicle in sight before you turn off...you don't want to hit him while turning because he was in your blind spot!
   
9. If the track is giving out timeslips, there will be a shack on the return road where you can stop and your time will be given to you on a slip of paper. If it doesn't make any sense to you, ask another racer to explain it, but basically it shows your reaction time (R/T), time until your car reached the 1/8 mile mark, your speed at that point, time until you car reached the 1/4 mile mark, and again your speed at that point.
   
10. You can go around to the staging lanes and race again, or park for a while and get some food/drink or watch others race.
    

Tips

• Some events (those that are set up to replicate street racing) have a Christmas Tree that resembles a traffic light like you would find on the street, instead of the traditional Tree. If you encounter this type, treat it like any other traffic light. GO on green!
  
• Practice "launching" your car (getting it moving from a dead stop quickly), in a safe, legal place. It does take practice, and other racers who drive the same or similar vehicles can be a great source of information.
  
• Instead of waiting for the green light to come on, try leaving on the last amber light. By the time your car starts moving, the green light will have come on.
  
• If you get a red light on the Christmas Tree, it means you left the starting line before the green light came on!
  
• Try different setups with your car, like changing the tire pressures, running more or less fuel, different launch techniques, etc.
  

Warnings

• This IS a dangerous sport! Although many precautions have been made by the track to prevent serious injury, you can still be hurt by yourself or by others. Be careful, and if your car is not able to handle racing because of faulty brakes, fuel, oil, coolant, or other leaks, bad tires, etc then DO NOT RACE IT. You run an increased risk of injury to not only yourself but others.
  
• Consider some safety equipment like an approved helmet, fire extinguisher, and protective clothing.
  
• It's bad if you leak any type of liquids onto the track. This includes water dripping from your A/C, so be sure to switch it off well before you get out of the staging lanes.
  

Things You'll Need

• A car or truck that is capable of handling the increased stresses of racing.
  
• Extra oil and coolant, some rags, and a flashlight.
  
• Money to get into your track event and to cover drinks and food.
  
• Driver's License
  
• A friend (optional, but most "for fun" events allow you to bring one rider along for the race. Even if they can't race with you, they still provide good company.)
  
• Camera or video recorder (optional)
  

Related wikiHows

• How to Make Your Car Run Faster on Uphills
  
• How to Do Handbrake Skids
  
• How to Spin an Automatic Car
  
• How to Double Clutch Downshift
  

Article provided by wikiHow, a collaborative writing project to build the world's largest, highest quality how-to manual. Please edit this article and find author credits at the original wikiHow article on How to Race Your Car at the Dragstrip. All content on wikiHow can be shared under a Creative Commons license.

How much is my car worth?

Want to sell your car? Wonder how much you can get for it? Looking for a quality used car? Want to know how much their going for? Save money by looking at this car buying/selling guide.

Fight a Parking Ticket

How to Fight a Parking Ticket

from wikiHow - The How to Manual That You Can Edit

There are many ways for fighting a parking ticket. In New York it can be slightly easier.

Steps

1. Review your ticket carefully for mistakes.
   
2. Look for a mistake of fact on the ticket. If you can provide evidence to prove a mistake, this may be enough to have the ticket or your court case dropped.
   
3. If you contest your ticket, try to get a court date that interferes with the police officer's schedule (find out when his shifts are, etc.) In most places, if the officer who issued the ticket does not show up in court, the ticket will be thrown out.
   
4. Adopt an attitude of contrition when you go before the judge for your hearing. Say you know you were wrong and that you have learned from your mistake. The judge is more likely to be lenient with you if he or she knows you are going to try to do better in the future.
   
5. Provide defending evidence. If the wording is unclear about a parking area, or paint is too faded to generally recognize, a photo of the area can provide the judge with more information about the situation.
   
6. Try using one of the following tricks to avoid getting a parking ticket all together (these methods are not guaranteed to work and you are likely better off paying the meter fee or abiding by the parking restriction rules):
   
   • Leave a hand written dated note on your dash stating that you put money in the meter and it did not account for it. Technically you are entitled to the maximum time allowed by the meter. You're car will be marked and the time noted by passing bylaw enforcement officers as is done if the parking zone was a timed zone. This may not work if the bylaw officer does not notice the note on the dash so be sure to make it as visible as possible.
     
   • Pop the hood of your vehicle and apply your emergency blinkers; this classifies you as an abandoned vehicle on a highway and you are less likely to receive a ticket as it requires different paperwork by the officer.
     
   • Park on private property instead of city property. Restricting the use of private property for the purposes of parking requires that the owner of the land erects proper signage indicating that you are not allowed to park there and the signage MUST include the bylaw number and the specific wording accepted by that city as suitable no parking wording (for example simply saying "no parking" is not enforceable as there is no consequence indicated so one could say that he/she didn't know that they would receive a ticket if parking there). The best most cities can do is give you a citation indicating that you have 72 hours to remove your vehicle from the location. Be careful with this option though, as the owner of the land can have you towed by a private towing company and you will be liable for the expense. Your vehicle may also be subject to vandalism by the property owner as a subtle warning to never park there again. By using this option you are likely inconveniencing the property owner and you shouldn't do something to someone else that you wouldn't want done to you.
     
   • Park in a space that's already been paid for and has room for two. If you drive a very small vehicle (such as a hatchback, motorcycle or scooter) and you discover an unusually large parking space, or one where another small vehicle has parked, you can get away with parking your vehicle in the same spot. Putting money in a parking meter is the equivalent of leasing that space from the city for the indicated time on the meter. Most jurisdictions don't outline any restrictions as to how many vehicles can be parked in the designated area for the time leased. Be sure your vehicle does not hang over the designated parking area lines or you may be ticketed and towed. Also, be careful not to block the other vehicle in the parking space or your vehicle may be damaged when they try to remove their vehicle from the space.
     
   • If the spot is a timed spot with no meter, move your vehicle a few inches forward or backward before the allowed time has expired. A bylaw enforcement officer chalks your tire with an 'X' and documents where it was marked on the tire and at what time. Upon his/her return to ticket you after the time has expired, if the chalk mark is in a different location he/she cannot prove that your vehicle remained in the space and did not leave and return (which entitles you to the maximum time allowed by the space again). He/She must chalk your tire again and allow the maximum time to expire before returning to ticket your vehicle. Be careful that the chalk mark indeed is in a visibly different location than it was previously as the officer's paperwork is only an approximation of where it was marked. Ensure that the chalk mark is unarguably in a different location by being at least a quarter turn of the wheel away from where it was before.
     
   
   

Tips

• 1. If you would like to argue about the validity of the ticket, it doesn't help to contradict the police officer. So do not say something like "I didn't do it", or "I wasn't parked there" if the police officer is going to say otherwise.
     
  2. You need to find a MERIT to let the summons be dismissed.
     
  3. If there is a scribbled correction this is called a Alertation and can sometimes warrant a dismissal.
     
  4. If it is a street sweeping ticket, you can sometimes get a dismissal if there is graffiti on the sign. A bumper sticker placed in the right position would be considered graffiti.
     
  
  

Warnings

• In some places, courts are giving people court dates based on the officer's schedule, so he will be able to appear in court.
  
• Trying to cheat the law by exploiting parking loopholes can have undesired consequences that are sometimes worse than the ticket itself.
  

Related wikiHows

• How to Avoid a Traffic Ticket
  
• How to Fight a Traffic Ticket
  
• How to Avoid a Speeding Ticket
  

Article provided by wikiHow, a collaborative writing project to build the world's largest, highest quality how-to manual. Please edit this article and find author credits at the original wikiHow article on How to Fight a Parking Ticket. All content on wikiHow can be shared under a Creative Commons license.

Deal with a tailgater

How to Deal with Someone Tailgating You

from wikiHow - The How to Manual That You Can Edit

There is nothing as frustrating as driving on a two-lane road and having a vehicle so close behind you, that you fear to brake lest they hit you in the rear. On a four-lane highway, the fear is less, but the sight of another car so close makes for nervous driving.

Steps

1. Pull over and allow the vehicle behind you to pass, if it is safe to do so. If the car behind you is catching up, there's a good chance the driver wants to go faster. If it's safe to do so, let him/her.
   
   • On narrower roads, use turnouts to allow others to pass when it is safe to do so. In many places, it is required that slower traffic use turnouts. Elsewhere, it is simply polite.
     
   • On a winding road, do not speed up so drastically at passing lanes that others cannot pass. Many drivers go slowly and cautiously around curves and then get on a straightaway and feel that they have the space or visibility to dart ahead. Have the patience to let others past.
     
   
   
2. Slow down gradually. If somebody is following you too closely to be safe, slow down, but do not make it a sudden move. Most likely they will take the opportunity to pass you when it is possible and take the hint to give you a bit more space until then. Should an accident occur, at least it will occur at a slower speed.
   
3. If you are comfortable driving a bit faster and it is safe, then try speeding up. It might be that you are driving too slowly.
   
4. Look in the rear mirror, and use your hand on the mirror, as if you were waving back and forth, to signal him to get off your bumper.
   
5. Tap your brakes lightly a few times, so that he/she sees your brake lights, but not so hard that you actually slow down. This is another signal to back off.
   

Tips

• Do not allow the other driver to make you nervous. He or she will move away or slow down, pass, or turn off eventually.
  
• Be courteous to other drivers and avoid crowding behind them or following too closely.
  

Warnings

• Tailgating is very dangerous, and even more so if the weather reduces visibility or makes the road surface slippery.
  
• Never start speeding to get rid of a tailgater; if you do not feel comfortable driving faster, use other means to discourage him/her from following. Until then, keep driving at a comfortable, safe, and legal speed.
  

Related wikiHows

• How to Drive
  
• How to Drive a Car
  
• How to Test Drive a Car
  
• How to Drive Safely in the Rain
  
• How to Keep Right Except to Pass
  

Article provided by wikiHow, a collaborative writing project to build the world's largest, highest quality how-to manual. Please edit this article and find author credits at the original wikiHow article on How to Deal with Someone Tailgating You. All content on wikiHow can be shared under a Creative Commons license.

Change your Air Filter

How to Change Your Air Filter

from wikiHow - The How to Manual That You Can Edit

Air is the one thing your car needs more than fuel. But although it comes free of charge, it's not always clean. Air filters maintain the inside of the engine free of dust and insects. Replace or clean your air filter within the recommended time and your car will run at peak performance levels. You can to this routine maintenance yourself, as air filters are inexpensive and quick to replace.

Steps

1. Secure the vehicle. Park the car on level ground, apply the parking brake. Shift into first gear (manual transmission) or Park (automatic transmission), and turn off the ignition.
   
2. Open the bonnet. Release the bonnet with the lever inside the car. Move the exterior bonnet catch for final release. Lift the bonnet and secure it with the prop rod.
   
3. Locate the air filter unit. The air filter unit is usually situated on top of the engine. On older cars with carburettors the filter is usually under a bulky, round cover made of plastic or metal; fuel-injected cars tend to have a square or rectangular air filter housing can be found slightly off centre between the front grill and the engine.
   
4. Remove the air filter cover. Loosen the hose clamp that seals the air conduct. Undo all the screws holding the air filter cover. Some models have wing nuts, other air filters are just clamped on with a quick release system. Keep screws and other parts in a safe location so you can find them later. Pull the cover out of the air conduct and lift it up so it comes off the lower part of the housing. Consult a mechanic if you don't know how to lift the cover.
   
5. Take out the air filter. Now you can see a round or rectangular filter made of cotton, paper or gauze. In 4x 4 vehicles the more complex filter is usually a double unit consisting of both an oil soaked and a dry filter element. Filters have a rubber rim that seals off the unit's interior. Simply lift the filter out of the housing.
   
6. Clean the air filter housing. Seal the air conduct with adhesive tape. It only takes a minute and that way you won't get any dirt into the engine whilst cleaning. Connect the air hose to the compressor and use the compressed air to blow out the dust. Alternatively use a vacuum cleaner to suck up any dirt.
   
7. Replace the filter. Replace the old filter with a new one. Simply insert it into the housing with the rubber rim facing up. Make sure the edges are sealed by the rubber rim. You should change the filter every 15,000 km, about once a year. If you live in a dusty area check up after 10,000 km.
   
8. Replace the cover. Carefully insert the cover back into the air conduct and then press the entire piece down onto the lower half of the air filter unit. Make sure it's not askew as this would alter engine performance levels. Tighten all the screws or clamps and finally check that you have put everything firmly back together by slightly rocking the unit with both hands. Make sure the bonnet is properly shut. Perform this check regularly and you keep your car breathing at maximum efficiency by keeping the dust out.
   

Tips

• You can clean the old filter as long as the material isn't torn, cracked or oil stained. Use a light to check if it is oily inside. Hold a lamp behind it and see if the light gets blocked out by oil. Proceed if the light can be seen. Now blow out the dust with compressed air if you have it, or else vacuum it up. Turn the air filter around so you are cleaning both sides .
  
• You can put the filter back in this time. Buy yourself a new filter soon and change at the next check.
  

Warnings

• Make sure that you properly secure the vehicle.
  

Things You'll Need

• a new air filter/ specifications as recommended by the manufacturer
  
• a flat screwdriver
  
• a Phillips screwdriver
  
• a compressor air valve w/hose
  

Related wikiHows

• How to Change the Cabin Air Filter in a Toyota
  
• How to Install a Cabin Air Filter in a 2003 Ford Escape Xlt
  
• How to Calculate Your Car's Fuel Efficiency (MPG)
  
• How to Keep Track of Fuel Use
  
• How to Get Glue off of a Car
  

Sources and Citations

• VideoJug.com - Original source of this article. Shared with permission.
  

Article provided by wikiHow, a collaborative writing project to build the world's largest, highest quality how-to manual. Please edit this article and find author credits at the original wikiHow article on How to Change Your Air Filter. All content on wikiHow can be shared under a Creative Commons license.

Create an Art Car

How to Create an Art Car

from wikiHow - The How to Manual That You Can Edit

Tired of the sea of silver and tan that seems to make up traffic? Do you want to stand out or make a statement? Try turning your vehicle into an art car.

Steps

1. Choose an automobile to modify. If you're planning on driving your art car on a regular basis, you'll want one that is in good mechanical working order. Some "cartists", however, prefer to leave their art cars parked, and only move them by towing to destinations such as art shows. Since you'll probably be modifying the outside heavily, it doesn't matter too much if the finish is damaged, although an additional investment of time and effort will be required to remove any rust if you're going to paint the car.
   
2. Choose your theme. Themes are unlimited. You can go with a hobby, a political statement, self-expression or a commercial venture. If the car is going to be driven, it's likely to draw attention and can be a good medium through which to advance a cause or promote a business.
   
3. Plan your car art and start where it draws you. During the planning stage, let your creativity run wild. Make sketches or collect swatches and samples of possible materials or colors to use. Then, choose an idea and modify it so that you can execute it.
   
4. Make any pre-paint modifications to the car itself. If your plan calls for see-through panels, for instance, it's best to make the cuts before painting.
   
5. Create any sculptures or larger items you plan to attach to the car. If you can do these separately from the car itself, they will help you to get the colors and arrangement right on the rest of the vehicle. It's also a good idea to do these first, at least the larger ones, to determine whether you're really committed to the project before you cut and paint.
   
   • Keep in mind that you can also expand the surface of the car with expandable spray foam or bondo body-filler. This may reduce the need to attach separate large objects to the car.
     
   
   
6. Paint the car. Choose a color or colors that will go with your theme. The paint can be the art in itself or it can be a background for other additions, or both. One-shot sign enamel is available in bright colors and is very durable, but you can also use oil paint (for more expression and less convenience) or even poster paint (for a temporary design).
   
7. Attach any large pieces where they will go. For larger pieces, be very sure that you secure them firmly (see warnings below). It's likely that you'll need to use bolts, screws, pop rivets or welding. There are, however, ways to attach large pieces temporarily, such as with string or rope, or even creating edges that wrap around doors and trunks so that they are secured when the door or trunk is closed.
   
8. Attach any other background materials, such as tile, fur, bottle caps, etc. A car that has its surface virtually covered in small objects is often referred to as a "gluey". You can use silicone adhesive, epoxy or liquid nails. Use the larger works to get the spacing and arrangement right.
   
   • Smaller objects can be attached temporarily with magnets. This is useful if you only want the car to be a work of art for a short period of time, or if there's a chance the objects will be stolen when the car is unattended.
     
   • Don't forget that if the car is driven, these items will see vibration, acceleration, and high wind. They should also be relatively weatherproof.
     
   
   
9. Light it up. If the art car will be on display after hours, you can add Christmas lights, el wire or neon tubes, which can be powered independently (battery in the back seat?), through the cigarette lighter, or wired to the battery.
   
10. Apply any finish coatings to the outside. Will you add a protective coating of shellac or fill in grooves with caulk of some sort?
    
11. Decorate the inside of the car, if you are going to. Will you add furry trim or bright colors to go with your theme?
    
12. Decorate yourself to match. Wear outfits that match or complement the design of the car.
    
13. Show off your art car. Go to shows, parades, or just drive around town. Be prepared to answer questions! To find other "cartists" go to an art car parade.
    

Tips

• Be realistic about your mechanical and electrical abilities if you plan to do more than surface decoration. If you want to add lights or make major structural modifications, be sure you know what you're doing, or get help from someone who does.
  
• Don't forget to leave space for yourself and your passengers. That means checking that doors can still open and close, not applying interior trim where it will encroach on passenger space, etc.
  
• When painting, follow the directions on the paint can.
  
• Be sure you allow 24 hours before driving with any newly glued items on your car.
  
• When attaching large sculptures to your vehicle, allow for vibration and a back up system. Use a lot of quarter-inch bolts to hold sculptures on. You can also also use an #8 copper wire as a backup plan. Safety is a great concern. Remember that anything sticking out will be subject to wind, vibration, acceleration, and deceleration. You want people to look at your car but not get hit by it.
  
• Depending on your theme, look around for found materials. They'll save you money, and they just may inspire ideas you hadn't thought of.
  
• Plan to protect your hard work from the weather. Store it in a garage or other covered parking if you can; if you can't, get a cover or tarp for it.
  

Warnings

• If you will drive the car (and isn't that the point?), be sure to comply with the laws of your area. That means, among other things, not covering up things like lights, windshields, and license plates.
  
• Be mindful of structural integrity. It's one thing to chop out a bit of sheet metal and replace it with acrylic so that goodies inside a door can show through; it's another matter entirely to start slicing up frame members.
  

Related wikiHows

• How to Turn a Car Into a Moving Advertisement
  
• How to Remove Rust from a Car
  
• How to Get Spray Paint off of a Car
  
• How to Be Happy With Your Car
  

Sources and Citations

• http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Art_car
  

Article provided by wikiHow, a collaborative writing project to build the world's largest, highest quality how-to manual. Please edit this article and find author credits at the original wikiHow article on How to Create an Art Car. All content on wikiHow can be shared under a Creative Commons license.

Install speakers and subwoofers

How to Install Car Speakers and Subwoofers

from wikiHow - The How to Manual That You Can Edit

Are your car speakers distorted? Here we'll show you how to install new ones!

Steps

1. Insert DIN tools into each side of the car stereo. Pull on them and the stereo should slide out of the dash.
   
2. Disconnect the speaker and amplifier terminals from your car stereo.
   
3. Take your door panels or speaker grilles off.
   
4. Disconnect the old speakers and old amplifiers from their terminals.
   
5. Connect the new speakers and amplifiers to their terminals.
   
6. Replace the door panels and speaker grilles.
   
7. Turn on the ignition. Listen!
   

Things You'll Need

• Car Speakers
  
• Optional- Car Amplifiers
  
• DIN Tools
  

Related wikiHows

• How to Install a New Car Stereo System
  
• How to Detail Model Car Engines on the Cheap
  
• How to Mount a License Plate
  
• How to Make Your Car Look Like a VIP's Car
  

Article provided by wikiHow, a collaborative writing project to build the world's largest, highest quality how-to manual. Please edit this article and find author credits at the original wikiHow article on How to Install Car Speakers and Subwoofers. All content on wikiHow can be shared under a Creative Commons license.

Leaking Tire?

How to Find a Leak in a Tire

from wikiHow - The How to Manual That You Can Edit

You are driving on the highway,then suddenly there is a loud noise.
Stop the care and see if your tire just went flat.

Steps

1. Mix the soap with your water and let it sit for one minute.
   
2. Dump a little water onto your tire.
   
3. Notice ifthe water starts to bubble in one place,thats where the hole is.
   
4. Look and do not see bubbles, your lucky. you don't have a flat.
   
   • If your leak is on a bike tire, take out the tubing and fill it and quickly put it in a filled bathtub or pool. You should see air bubbles coming from the spot were the holes are located.
     
   
   

Alternative Method

1. Inflate tube until it expands as big as a car tire.
   
2. Listen for hissing noise emanating from the tube. Feeling for the hole also works.
   
3. After locating the hole, patching the tube can be done.
   

Tips

• Use a sponge to get the water on your tire.
  
• Clean your tire with plain water to get the dirt out of the hole, if there is one.
  

Warnings

• Pull off the road when you do this.
  

Things You'll Need

• liquid soap
  
• warm water
  
• bucket
  

Related wikiHows

• How to Convert Bicycle Tires Into Studded Snow Tires
  
• How to Mend a Puncture in a Bike Tire
  
• How to Fix Brakes on a Bike
  
• How to Replace a Bicycle Tire
  

Article provided by wikiHow, a collaborative writing project to build the world's largest, highest quality how-to manual. Please edit this article and find author credits at the original wikiHow article on How to Find a Leak in a Tire. All content on wikiHow can be shared under a Creative Commons license.

Car won't start? Try this.

How to Fix a Car That Doesn't Start

from wikiHow - The How to Manual That You Can Edit

Repairing a car that wont start can be as simple as plugging in a wire, changing a fuse, or as complicated as replacing major engine components. The following may help you discover the problem, but there is no way to cover every possibility. We will look at individual possible problems, and ways to check for them.

Steps

1. Check the battery. If you do not have sufficient voltage and cranking power, the car simply won't start. Have someone attach booster cables to your battery if the engine seems to be turning over slower than normal. If the battery seems charged, and the starter motor still doesn't turn the engine, the problem may be in your starter motor itself, or the battery cables. Changing the starter is not too complicated, but if you decide to attempt this, try to find someone who has done it before to help you, or buy a do it yourself manual that has a description and pictures of what you need to do.
   
2. Make sure you have fuel in your tank. Hopefully your fuel gauge is working, but some lose calibration, and will register remaining fuel when the tank is dry. You cannot open a true fuel injected system to look for fuel, but on older cars, you can remove the air filter from the breather housing by taking the wing nut or other fastener off the top and lifting the cover. Here, when you pump the accelerator pedal, you should see gasoline spray into the carburetor throttle body. Some cars have electric fuel pumps situated in the gas tank, and having someone listen at the filler cap while you turn the ignition switch from off to run, they will hear the pump cycle on for a few seconds, then click off when the system pressure reaches the required level. This can tell you if the pump is not working, but changing the fuel pump is a difficult and possibly dangerous project.
   
3. Remove a spark plug wire from your spark plug and use an insulation handled screwdriver to ground the metal fitting inside the spark plug boot to the engine, and have someone turn the engine over while you watch for a spark. You should have the metal screwdriver shaft about an eighth of an inch from a clean metal surface on the engine, and be careful not to touch any uninsulated parts of the tool while testing the plug. If you do not have a spark, you have an ignition circuit problem, and depending on the vintage of your vehicle, you may have to replace anything from a coil wire to an ignition CPU, or computer.
   

Tips

• It is not possible to cover all the reasons a car won't crank in this article, but if you are able to find a do it yourself book at a department store or auto parts supply, or your local library, they can help with specific problems.
  
• Look at the wires, hoses, and other components under the hood. Often, one unplugged wire, or one broken vacuum or fuel line will be the problem, and these are simple and inexpensive to fix.
  
• Check the owner's manual for fuses, relays, and circuit breakers related to either fuel or ignition. You should be able to locate these and make sure they are not tripped or blown. In the relay block, you can exchange relays that are the same size from another component, such as the AC blower, to test the ignition relay.
  
• If the owner's manual doesn't list a fuse or relay for the fuel pump, your car has a mechanical pump, and the only way to check it is to remove a fuel line, and turn the engine over to see if gasoline comes out, but this is very dangerous!
  
• Even when your car doesn't start when you try the ignition, it may show a "code", or information stored in the computer, that can be accessed by a technician to find the source of your problem. This may be a "check engine" light, or other indicator.
  
• Listen to your engine when you crank it. If you hear a knocking sound, backfiring, or misfiring, you may have serious engine problems such as jumped timing, stuck or broken valves, or a flooded carburetor.
  

Warnings

• Do not remove any wires or other electrical parts without disconnecting the negative (-) post of the battery.
  
• Do not remove fuel lines unless you know how to bleed off the pressure in them, injected fuel systems are pressurized, and will blow off gasoline when they are uncoupled.
  
• When testing for spark or doing anything else which requires turning the motor over while looking under the hood, be careful of the fan blades, belts, and other moving parts.
  
• Never turn the engine over or crank it with the breather cover removed. Fuel in the throttle body can ignite!
  

Things You'll Need

• Once again, a do-it-yourself manual, such as Peterson's or Hayne's is more complete and vehicle specific than this article.
  
• Battery tester or jumper cables.
  

Related wikiHows

• How to Fix a Car That Stalls
  
• How to Start a Car
  
• How to Push Start a Car
  
• How to Teach Your Child Simple Car Maintenance and Repair
  
• How to Repair a Lawnmower
  
• How to Fix a Flat Car Tire with Fix a Flat
  

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How to Change the Oil in Your Car

from wikiHow - The How to Manual That You Can Edit

Regularly changing you car's engine oil and filter is one of the most important things you can do to keep your car running well. Over time your oil breaks down and your filter becomes clogged with contaminants. Depending upon your driving habits, this may take as few as 3 months or 3,000 miles (consult your owner's manual for service intervals). Fortunately, changing your oil is both easy and inexpensive. This article will help you to learn how.

Steps

1. Gather all the necessary supplies and equipment. Under your car with all the oil out is not the time to discover what is missing. It will help to have everything close at hand. Proof of regular oil changes is required to keep your valuable warranty coverage, so save your receipts.
   
2. Find a flat surface suitable for changing your oil. Level driveways or alleys are ideal. Start by getting the car up on the ramps or jack stands (the ground must be solid, like concrete or asphalt). If you're working on a car with a high ground clearance you can just shimmy under. This saves time and is safer: if the car isn't up, it can't fall down! If you do jack up your car, raise it high enough to work comfortably and set your jackstands (in pairs). Be sure to block the back tires with chocks. Chock at least one wheel, both in front and behind it, to prevent the car from rolling either way. The best time to drain the oil is right after driving as the oil will be more liquid, allowing you to remove as much of the old oil as possible (Caution: take great care when working with a hot engine.)
   
3. Before draining out the old oil, you may want to pop the hood of the car and open the oil filler cap on the top of the engine. This will help the oil drain easier because air can flow in as the crankcase drains. Locate the drain plug on the bottom of the oil pan. It is normally towards the back of the engine at the underside of the car, and is angled down. Be sure you don't remove the plug to the transmission (healthy automatic transmission fluid is usually red) or other component. The bolt size will vary from car to car, and is in the 13-30mm range. All Toyotas and Lexus are 14mm (older models may be 13mm), all Mercedes Benz are 13mm, Jaguars are 30mm, older Volvos are 25mm, BMWs are 17mm, VW and Audi are 19mm, Honda and Acura are 17mm. All others are between 13 and 19mm. On some vehicles you may have to remove a shield on the bottom of the vehicle to have access to the oil pan. All Mercedes have a plastic shield held on with six (6) 8mm screws and some pickups and SUVs will have steel skid plates.
   
4. Position whatever you are catching the oil with under the plug, then loosen the bolt. Oil has a tendency to come out of the pan at an angle, so make sure the opening on your container is pretty large. Lay something under the car to catch oil runoff. As the oil comes out of the pan at an angle, it can be tricky to catch, and may land on the ground. If this includes your driveway, you will want some newspaper or a drop cloth to catch it, or you risk an oil stain on your driveway or garage.
   
5. Loosen the plug counter-clockwise using the proper sized socket (or wrench). The fit is especially important if the bolt is tight, which it shouldn't be. If you need more leverage, an extension such as a pipe segment on your ratchet handle can help. If this type of "breaker-bar" arrangement is required it was way too tight. You should also remove and replace the circular paper (or felt) drain plug gasket, but a metal washer can be re-used. Be careful not to drop the plug in the oil, it's a messy job trying to find the plug in the black stuff.
   
   • If you do drop it in the pan, you can easily find it with a magnet. Ideally, use the type that is at the end of an expandable rod.
     
   • Another easy way to "save" the drain plug is to use a funnel with a bit of screening in it. Catch the plug as it falls out. You can then pull the funnel out of the way of the stream and set it to one side.
     
   
   
6. Some vehicles (such as BMW, Mercedes, newer Volvos, etc) may have a filter element or cartridge as opposed to the simpler spin-on type. They require you to open the cap of a built-in resevoir and lift out the filter element itself.
   
7. Locate the filter assembly. This can be a tough part. Filters are not put in a standard position, and they can be on the front, back and side of engines. Look at the filter you purchased to replace the old one and look for something similar. Once you have located it, remove it from the engine. This can be tough, and often seems too hard. They are not supposed to be tight. If it is, once you get a good grip slow and steady twisting can sometimes get it to begin to spin. If you can't get it off by hand, use an oil filter wrench. Keep trying. It will eventually come off. There may be some residual oil in the filter, so be careful not to spill it and have a pan underneath to catch the drips.
   
   • When removing the oil filter, make sure that the rubber gasket ring comes off with the filter. If you don't and it sticks to the car, the new filter won't seal properly and will leak.
     
   • When installing the new filter, remove all packaging, then dip the tip of your finger in the new oil and smear it on the gasket ring of the new filter. If you use the old oil, it may contain buildup that will wear away between the gasket and the car and eventually become a leak.
     
   • You might pour some oil into the filter prior to installing it. This can reduce the amount of time your car takes to regain proper oil pressure. If your filter is mounted vertically, you may be able to fill it almost to the top. If it is at an angle, you may be able to get just a few tablespoons worth in, just to saturate the filter media. It's actually not necessary if the car has not been stored, there is enough oil left on the bearings to lubricate until pressure is built up; if you'll notice, no garages pre-fill the filter.
     
   
   
8. Replace the drain plug on the oil pan. Don't forget to install a replacement gasket. Start threading it with your fingers so as not to cross the threads, and it should be snug, but no need to be super-tight.
   
9. Carefully screw on the new, lubricated filter, being careful to not cross the threads. With the paper cartridge filters, they will always come with at least one o-ring, sometimes as many as four different ones. Make sure to replace all of them to ensure that they will not leak. The filter will generally say how tight to tighten it. Go until the gasket touches, then however far it says it should be. This is usually 1/2 or 3/4 of a turn after the gasket touches.
   
10. Add new oil to the car at the fill hole. The number of quarts you need is in the owner's manual, usually listed under "capacities". Don't always rely on the dip stick for an accurate measurement; it can be off, especially if the engine has just been run (the stick will read low because there is still oil in the galleries). If you want to check the stick accurately, just check it first thing in the morning, parked on a level surface, when it's cold and settled. It's a relative thing.
    
    • If you hold the bottle with the spout on top, as shown, it will pour more smoothly, without bubbling.
      
    
    
11. Replace the fill cap, check around for tools and close the hood.
    
12. Start the engine, watching to be sure the oil pressure light goes off after start-up, and be sure to look under the car while the engine is running (put car in park or neutral with the parking brake on) to check for any drips. If the filter and drain plug aren't tight, they may leak slowly. Run the engine for a minute or so.
    

Tips

• Be sure you have purchased the right filter and have all the tools you need before starting. It's a pain to have to run back to the store in the middle of the job, especially since you won't be able to use your car.
  
• It's helpful to have a friend who has done this before around for assistance.
  
• To avoid getting oil all over your arm when removing the drain plug bolt, apply inward force (as if you are trying to push the plug back into the hole) while removing it. When you know that bolt is fully unscrewed, quickly pull it away from the opening. If you're lucky only a few drops will get on your hand. Tie a rag around your wrist when you remove the oil plug. Oil might get all over your hands, but it won't go all the way down your arm, making it a messy clean up. Also, have pumice or citrus hand-cleaner, or consider using disposable gloves to keep your hands perfectly clean. Latex rubber will decay quickly in oil, so nitrile or another material is a better choice.
  
• For a very stubborn filter, using a hammer and a large screwdriver as a sort of "chisel" can push the filter counter-clockwise. Be advised: once you punch hole in this thin filter wall, the engine cannot be started until it's replaced.
  
• There are some oil drain valves on the market that replace your normal drain pan bolt. These can make oil changes much more convenient and can reduce the amount of mess you make.
  
• To avoid spilling too much oil as you remove the filter, wrap a plastic bag around the filter, which will catch any oil that escapes as you remove it. Before disposing of the old filter, it is best to get all possible oil out. This can be done by suspending it upside-down on a heavy wire mesh set across your oil catch basin. As a last step, taking your time (because warm used oil is thin, ie, low viscosity), pour it through a big funnel into gallon jugs. They can be coolant, windshield-washer fluid, anything with a secure screw cap. Leave a few inches of room at the top. Don't allow these containers to sit in sunlight too long, the plastic can get very brittle.
  
• You can lower your cost by buying cheaper oil and filters if you so choose. Remember, though, to always make sure that the oil you use fulfills the car manufacturer's requirements as stated in the manual. Be sure to use the oil specified in the owners manual as to viscosity. That's the number that looks like "10w-30". A lower "W" rating means the oil is formulated to flow better in cold. Below freezing, a 5w oil is preferred. Below 0°F (-18°C), a synthetic 0w oil is worth considering.
  
• Draining your oil with the engine still warm can speed up the draining process. Be careful not to let the hot oil get on your skin.
  

Warnings

• Recycle your oil or store it if you have to. Dumping it on the ground is not cool and is illegal. Your local auto store or garage will take your used oil for free, in most cases. Many of them heat their garages with waste oil so they are happy to get it.
  
• Instead of lifting the car, you can park over a trench or ditch or with two wheels up on a curb. Be sure to take every safety precaution while doing this (use the emergency brake, block the wheels, make sure the tires are completely stable on the ground, etc.).
  
• It is unsafe to work on a car that is still on a jack. Instead, use jack stands (never cinder blocks) and do the whole thing on a level concrete surface.
  
• Be careful not to burn yourself! Your engine, the used oil inside it, and other parts of the car can stay hot enough to burn you for a long time after you turn the ignition off.
  
• Refer to your owner's manual for jack/lift instructions; improper jack placement can damage your car badly.
  
• This how-to is not meant for all cars, and certainly shouldn't be your only source of information. Always consult your owner's manual for manufacturer's recommendations when determining your maintenance schedule.
  
• Don't get the oil inlet confused with the transmission fluid inlet. You can ruin your transmission if you put oil in it.
  
• If you don't use the correct wrench on the drain plug bolt you run the risk of "rounding it off" (destroying the head of the bolt).
  
• Do NOT over-tighten the new filter. Always tighten it by hand and not with a wrench.
  
• If your newer vehicle has synthetic oil STAY synthetic. You can mix conventional and synthetic in your older car, but NEVER go back to only conventional once synthetic is introduced. Seal and gasket failure may result. Likewise, don't switch to synthetic if you have an older car that has used conventional oil until now.
  
• Don't overfill; that can cause foaming or spills.
  
• Be careful with additives, synthetic oils, etc. Many of these products are more marketing than substance, and some can void your warranty or harm your vehicle. Check with the service people at your dealership first.
  
• Check with your owner's manual on selecting the correct weight (0-40w, 10w-30 etc) and type of oil (Organic, Synthetic). Many high performance vehicles (especially those with turbochargers) require synthetic oil of a specified weight. Running organic oil or the wrong weight may cause damage.
  

Things You'll Need

• Oil (check your owner's manual for specific weight and quantity needed). Most cars use 4-6 quarts. Also, make sure you use oil that meets the API performance rating for your vehicle. Most vehicles made since 2004 require rating "SM", which is better than the oil that was available when older cars were made. Always use the newest and latest spec oil available.
  
• Socket wrench (for foreign cars you will likely need a metric set).
  
• Oil filter (contact your local auto parts store for specific model of filter). Expensive ones do not clean oil any better. The ones that have a grippy coating are easier to install and tighten.
  
• Oil filter wrench. There are different size oil wrenches available depending on the diameter of the filter. The expensive one that is double articulated is the surest one to use.
  
• A way to get your car off the ground (ramps or a jack & jack stands work best).
  
• Something to catch the used oil in, and a funnel and sturdy gallon jugs to transport it.
  
• Oil rags or paper towel.
  
• Some vehicles require you to remove top or bottom panels, which might require additional tools.
  

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Sources and Citations

• Changing your oil, the video.
  

Article provided by wikiHow, a collaborative writing project to build the world's largest, highest quality how-to manual. Please edit this article and find author credits at the original wikiHow article on How to Change the Oil in Your Car. All content on wikiHow can be shared under a Creative Commons license.