How to Replace Your Automobile Windshield
from wikiHow - The How to Manual That You Can Edit
This article is published for the purpose of educating the reader on the techniques and principles of auto glass installations and explaining the Aftermarket Auto Glass industry, for the purpose of helping the reader to make an educated decision in choosing a quality professional to replace their auto glass. This article is written to explain the process of aftermarket auto glass installations and is not to be used as a teaching tool or to instruct the reader on windshield installations. Your windshield is a safety device and should only be installed by a qualified professional. Due to the many manufacturers and various designs of automobiles this book is not written to be a complete explanation of the automotive industry’s auto glass technology.
"Your Windshield is a Safety Device"
"Your Windshield Can Save Your Life" by Raymond Clough
Steps
- Remove the side and top moldings correctly. Don't pry the clips that hold them on; these clips are small plastic pieces specific for the vehicle and its molding. This saves time, but the result is that the molding will need to be glued on if no replacement clips are on hand. Time saved ten minutes or more and about $5.00 for the clips. Most are simple and totally astetic in value and are just an inch of plastic which is attached to the windshield. They do nothing for the windshield except make it look nice. Some are extremely complex with plastic clips and clamps which hold the molding securely to the windshield.
- Cut out the windshield. This can take anywhere from fifteen minutes to almost an hour. The urethane which holds the windshield in place is flexible but extremely strong; this allows the glass to move and not crack from every stress placed on it during driving.
- Use a cold knife to cut the urethane from the outside between the glass and the pinchweld. The major problem with this is when the previous installation has placed the glass close to the pinchweld and not allowing for sufficient space for the blade to drag it will break the glass causing shattering. Most often an aftermarket glass which has been pushed down too far to the pinchweld leaving only 1/8” or less for the cold knife blade to cut through. This causes the glass to break, shattering glass and making a mess.
- Often the glass pieces will fall down into the defroster vent to be blown out later. Cutting the windshield out from the inside of the vehicle is the only other option. Using a special extended handle razor knife the urethane is cut with a repeated dragging motion. Many installers use power cutters which are faster but do more damage to the metal of the vehicle, scratching the paint in the pinchweld area is not a problem if the scratch is painted with a pinchweld primer which must be matched to the urethane.
- This stuff is tough up to 1000 psi. Practice is the key, how much pressure to put on the razor without breaking it. How long to make your strokes so you don’t slip and cut the dash board or the head liner. It all takes practice but when you are not relying on repeat customers you can do it fast. The pinchweld has the old urethane about ¼” thick more or less and it needs to be trimmed down to 3/16” or about 3 mm.
- Use a cold knife to cut the urethane from the outside between the glass and the pinchweld. The major problem with this is when the previous installation has placed the glass close to the pinchweld and not allowing for sufficient space for the blade to drag it will break the glass causing shattering. Most often an aftermarket glass which has been pushed down too far to the pinchweld leaving only 1/8” or less for the cold knife blade to cut through. This causes the glass to break, shattering glass and making a mess.
- Prepare the glass with a primer specially matched to the urethane adhesive. The purpose of the primer is to open the molecules of the frit band (the black band around the perimeter of the windshield) this is done to prepare the glass to accept the molecules of the urethane. If your installer is in a hurry, ignorant or just does not care if your windshield pops out he will skip this step. After the glass is activated, the molding is attached to the glass and the urethane is next.
- Apply the urethane with an electric caulking gun. (Insert Picture) The best thing for the new urethane to adhere to is the old urethane. (Insert Picture of contaminated pinchweld under the molding) It must be clean and free from dirt, oil or other contaminants. A problem installers have is wind blowing dust onto the pinchweld before the urethane adhesive has been applied. This wind is caused from not only the weather conditions but other vehicles including the big trucks.
- Place the windshield in, carefully aligning the top bottom and sides by sight alone. Some vehicles have mounting block for the bottom of the windshield to rest on some do not. Careful not to touch the frit band because the oils and dirt from your hands can contaminate the activated glass and reduce the effectiveness of the activator. Use gloves, either latex or Nitrile to eliminate contaminates from reducing the ...
Warnings
- The author shall have neither liability nor responsibility to any person or entity with respect to any loss or damage caused or alleged to be cause directly or indirectly by the information contained in this article or by any information omitted from this book of the subject matter contained herein.
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